UNBOXING - USAriadna Sectorial Army Pack for INFINITY

 Announcing our SECOND YouTube video!

Today we are looking at the USAriadna Sectorial Army pack for INFINITY by Corvus Belli.

Did I mention that this starter has WEREWOLVES? 

UNBOXING - Core Space Starter Set

 The very FIRST official video is ready to view on The Sage Brush YouTube channel! 

In our first video, we are unboxing the MASSIVE starter set for Core Space.  Haven't heard of it?  Well check out the video and learn all about it!

Feedback and constructive criticism are welcomed.

A huge THANK YOU to Josh at Wargamingnewb for all the advice, technical assistance, and putting up with incessant questions.  You're a great friend, sir.

https://youtu.be/JEwDGNj0NJs

THE SAGE BRUSH YOUTUBE CHANNEL IS NOW LIVE!

Earlier in the week, we teased a big development.  You were probably able to get the hint from the image, of course.

Well, we are proud to announce that The Sage Brush FINALLY has a YouTube Channel!  It's been a long time coming and learning the ropes was a challenge, but it's finally here! 

Check us out at https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRAB750OVS238uJcx-jjZgg

(Let's get to 100 subscribers so I can set up a custom URL!)

To coincide with the launch of The Sage Brush on YouTube, we have created a Discord for all things TSB.  Please feel free to stop on by and join in on the discussion!

https://discord.gg/Cbt9AJZj

We appreciate your support!

SAGE BRUSH REVIEWS: CITADEL STC BRUSHES

[FINAL UPDATE 6/11:

     A response from GW states that they "do not believe the brushes to be defective" and are "unable to assist further".  If the pictures below are what GW considers "not defective" it's safe to say you're unlikely to get a reliable brush that will last long enough to justify the expense.  There are more reliable, affordable alternatives elsewhere.

GW is not the only game in town, so to speak.  Other companies offer better value.  Continue to support your local stores, because GW doesn't seem interested in doing that, either.]

With the release of Citadel's new STC line of synthetic brushes, I thought I'd give them a look to let you, my loyal readers, know if it's worth risking the money to even try them.

You may have seen the post about my previous experience with Citadel brushes , but to recap, it was truly awful.  The last two brushes I had failed within the span of painting two models!

Needless to say, those brushes could not possibly have been worse.  But I figured there was a slight possibility that maybe Games Workshop learned from their last attempt and perhaps made an improved line of brushes.

I selected four brushes that represent the type I use when Kolinsky brushes would not be a good choice (washes, metallics, contrast, varnish etc).  I got a Medium Shade Brush, a Medium Base Brush, a Small Base brush and a Small Shade brush.  I took care in the store to make sure that each of the brushes had a good point initially, and running them over the back of my hand did not alter that.

Generally I'm satisfied with the previous M Shade brush made of natural bristles - they don't last forever but they allow a good flow for washes.  The new M Shade brush is not as good - the wash doesn't flow as well from the synthetic bristles and the bristles have too much snap to permit easy use for its purpose.  

Verdict: Inferior to previous version.

The M Base brush has been used to basecoat a couple of models.  It's done acceptably well for that purpose and there's no sign of the point splitting yet as tends to happen with the previous natural-bristle M Base.  But I haven't yet used it on enough models to determine how long it will last.  

Verdict: Lifespan remains to be seen.  Currently acceptable for purpose but no better than the prior iteration.

Now we come to the small Layer and Base brushes.  After a few models (midway through a squad of 1/48 Spetsnaz), the points looked like this:

One of the things you may have noticed is the discoloration around the ferrule.  Normally people will say "You're letting paint get up in there and that's why the points are ruined".  Remember, however, that this happened midway through painting three models!

I don't paint straight from the pot and at no point did I dip the brushes in that far.  What happens is that these new synthetic fibers wick the paint up into the ferrule even if you are careful.  Before I took these photos I gave the brushes a thorough cleaning with Masters brush soap and then I tried to apply a point and let the clean lather dry.  After rinsing them later in the day, that's what they looked like.  

Here's a closer look at the tip of the brush on the left:

"Abominable" would not be too strong a word for this.  This brush isn't suitable for anything - not even applying glue to a base.  A small brush that cannot retain a point is a dead brush.  I've trimmed down some of my natural brushes that have gone bad to make stipple brushes, but these bristles wouldn't even be useful in that role.  

Verdict: ABSOLUTELY unacceptable.

So I wrote a polite email to Games Workshop customer service, including these photos and explaining how each of the four of them failed within one session of use, and explained my experience with proper brush care so as to make it clear that these brushes were not the result of abuse or improper use.  I specifically requested that the remedy should not be to simply replace the brushes as I had no confidence that the replacements would be any better.  They insisted that this was the only possible recourse, so I relented and gave them a second chance to make things right.

Well, gentle readers, the replacement brushes arrived today.  I haven't even opened the bag and here's what they look like:

You'll notice that the STC brushes do not have protectors over the tips, and they didn't even come loose in the bag - they're simply not even there.  But let's have a closer look at these unused brushes:

You'll notice the point on the Small Layer brush looks exactly like the original one - already errant bristles make it an unsuitable brush.  As for the Small Base brush?  One of the things GW was crowing about is that the tips on the new brushes wouldn't curl from use.  That's only true in the strictest sense, because the tip has curled before the first use!

I have sent another email to GW customer service with these photos, and insisted that this time a replacement was not a remedy I was willing to accept.  We shall see what they say.

Here's a simple fact:  When it comes to hobby supplies, there is NOTHING that GW sells that cannot be obtained with comparable quality for less money elsewhere (for instance hobby saws, drills and tweezers), or more volume for the same price (for instance, texture paint, crackle medium, or matte medium) or for even better quality for the same price.  I can't think of a single Citadel color that doesn't have an analogue in another paint line.  Army Painter colors can be hit or miss when it comes to consistency but they will generally have the colors you need, but more importantly, Vallejo has them beat in every regard.  The Game Color line is just as extensive and more faithful to the original Citadel line, and they come in dropper bottles rather than pots with flimsy lids designed to dry out your paint so you buy more.  And Vallejo gives you more for a lower price!  And with the prevalence of online shopping, availability isn't even an issue any longer.  I can get the hobby supplies I need from the comfort of my desk chair, if they can't be found locally.

When it comes to brushes, you can find a wider selection, with better quality, for the same price at any art supply or craft store.  You'll find reputable brands used by professional artists for the same cost as a crappy Citadel brush.  Spend your money wisely and simply AVOID GW HOBBY SUPPLIES ENTIRELY.

FINAL VERDICT: These brushes SUCK.  Inexcusably and completely.  NOT WORTH YOUR HARD-EARNED HOBBY DOLLARS.  AVOID AT ALL COSTS!

UPDATE 06/08:

Games Workshop Customer Service has responded with the following:

"I am sorry to hear that you have received brushes in unsatisfactory condition, I have escalated this feedback to the relevant department to look into, as this feedback can help us to improve on products and services.

In relation to the issue, unfortunately we are unable to do anything other than issue the replacement brushes which has been done. If you would like to obtain a refund for these items, I would advise to contact the store that you placed the order with, as they will need to speak with us directly and provide you with a refund for the product."

This sounds to me like they are saying "It doesn't matter if we replaced your defective product with poorly packed defective product, we've done our part."  I'm not seeing how this is going to "improve their products and services" if they can't even improve their service and product for one customer. 

GW expects my FLGS owner to eat the loss on these brushes because it's clear they aren't going to refund the money one way or another.  They're sure not going to credit him the MSRP if they do.  

I have been a Games Workshop customer before 40K even existed (does anyone remember Golden Heroes?) but at this point I'm through with GW entirely.  For the cost of two brushes, they've lost a lifelong customer and hundreds of dollars of my annual hobby spending.  They didn't even care enough to make sure the replacements were suitable and properly packed, and their response sounds like they don't care to take any further measures to ensure my satisfaction.

Does this sound like a company that's deserving of your patronage?  If this is how they handle two lousy brushes, what will they do if you have an issue?

My previous verdict was "Avoid GW brushes" but I guess what I mean to say is "Avoid GW ENTIRELY"!

Leaving GW in the Dust.

"Dear Warhammer 40,000,

I've been seeing someone new.  Yes, she's 20 years younger than you.  Yes, she's cheap and easy.  But she's fun, it doesn't take all evening to get some satisfaction and after a half an hour we're ready to go again. You're not who I fell in love with 30 years ago.  I hardly recognize you any more. I'll cherish the good times we had, and it was never all bad.  We can still spend time together, but I'm not going to keep spending all my time and money on you when all you want is more, more, more. "

"It's not you, it's me... No, OK, it is you, it's totally you."

That's my open letter to Games Workshop, and I'll tell you the reason:

    Recently, thanks to a friend at our FLGS, the store started carrying a new line: DUST 1947.  When I say "new", I mean new for us, because the game itself has been around for the last 10 years.  DUST could best be classified as a skirmish game - small matches may have as few as five models to a side, where full scale battles still won't have more than 30-40 models.  I had heard of it in passing, seen the models at other stores and thought it was cool, but didn't want to get involved in yet another game when I scarcely had the opportunity to catch up on my ever-increasing Pile of Shame.

Looking back, I wish I had, a lot sooner.  Here's why:

THE WORLD OF DUST

    DUST 1947 (previously known as Dust Tactics or Dust Warfare) is a "Weird War II" game set in a dieselpunk (the game's creator is fond of "panzerpunk") alternate history.  In the world of DUST, a covert faction of the Wehrmacht had discovered an alien spacecraft under the ice in Antarctica in 1936.  In addition to a fantastic resource known as VK (Vrill Kultir) they find a hibernating alien survivor.  They bring the technology and the alien back to Germany, where scientists seek to learn the secrets of this wondrous new material.  It is a power source and component of technology far more sophisticated than that of mid-20th Century Earth.  Think something like vibranium, I suppose.  The Axis use this technology to develop walkers, laser weapons, flying troopers and most frighteningly, to reanimate fallen soldiers and to turn gorillas into intelligent fighting troops.

    With these advances, the war on the Eastern Front goes very differently.  Stalingrad is overrun and conquered, the Soviet forces put on their back heel.  England is invaded, the war moving beyond the Blitz into fighting in the streets of London. Operation Valkyrie succeeds and Hitler is assassinated in 1943 by this shadowy faction within the German military, who then seize power and total control of the Axis powers.

    Russia forms a permanent alliance with China and the SSU (Sino-Soviet Union) is born.  The Allied powers of the United States, the British Commonwealth, France , Brazil and others also consolidate into a bloc.  Few parts of the world are not under the domain of one of the three major powers.

    Thanks to the daring and sacrifice of operatives in the Allies and the SSU, the secrets of VK are obtained and both powers begin to develop their own walkers and weapons technologies.  The Allies deploy heavy Rangers in flying suits of powered armor and troops armed with phasers - weapons that can destroy targets even through intervening cover.  The SSU perfect the technological ideas of Tesla weaponry.  Warfare as we know it is changed, and now in the year 1947, the war still drags on with no end in sight.

SO, that's the colorful and fascinating setting for this game.  It's a draw for historical gamers and sci-fi gamers alike.  It's reminiscent of Hellboy, Iron Sky, Bloodrayne, Dead Snow, The Rocketeer, Raiders of the Lost Ark, Captain America and so many other influences.  I was drawn to the walkers because of my lifelong obsession with powered armor and fighting robots - Battletech,  Dorvack and Maschinen Krieger among them.

    

    But there's more than just an interesting setting and cool looking units to this game.  Here are some of the many other reasons that this has become my new favorite game of choice and the target for my hobby spending:

1) The Rules:  The rulebook is available for FREE online, though those who prefer a printed copy also have that option.  It's a nice full-color book that's more affordable than most GW supplements, but it is not required.

    The rules are concise and elegant.  Special dice are used to determine the success if actions but there are only 3 symbols and in a pinch you could use standard six-sided dice if necessary.  Combat is straightforward - if a target is in range of your weapons, you can shoot it.  There are no range modifiers, rolls to wound, etc.  You roll a number of dice against the armor rating of the target.  Successes cause damage, the target rolls a save against that damage.  Hits and saves aren't variable from unit to unit or target to target so there are no charts to memorize or keep flipping back to.

    The playing surface is a grid of 4 inch squares, upon which movement and range are based.  When attacking a target, an imaginary line is drawn from the conveniently marked center of the attacker's square to the center of the target's.  If it passes through cover or the corner of cover (such as a wall) the target's save is improved against most weapons (other than things like flamethrowers and the aforementioned phasers). 

    The upside of this system is that there are no arguments about distance of movement, range, or line of sight. The game moves quickly because time isn't wasted debating and searching through charts. As a result, games go a lot faster - a 25-point starter game can be played on your lunch break, and a 100-point battle is done in an hour or two at most.  Plenty of time to get in another round of play!

    This system is very easy to learn to play. I read through the entire 160-page rulebook in one day and while I'd never presume to be an expert, at that point I was ready to teach others the game when the opportunity presents itself.

2) The Units: Aside from being interesting and full of character, the rules for the units are very clear.  Unit cards detail the statistics of each model or squad - its cost, movement, armor, health, and weapons.  When attacking, you look at the line for the given weapon and the column for unit type (infantry, armor or aircraft) and its armor value.  This shows you how many dice to roll on the attack and how much damage each successful hit will do.  It's about the only thing resembling a chart in all the game, but it's very easy to use.  The cards are coated so a dry-erase marker may be used to mark off damage, destroyed weapons, etc.

    These cards are also available in a deck, most can be downloaded from the web site, but most importantly, the free DUST Enlist app is kept current with the most updated versions of each unit's card.  You can tap on any of the skills or special rules for a unit to learn more about them.  And it contains an army builder that would make GW cry.  It works.  It's easy.  It's current.

The front and back of a Heavy Ranger Attack Squad unit card.

3) The Models:  The models are beautifully done 1/48th scale miniatures.  This makes it easy to source terrain from available WWII scale models, and some units are even simply converted historical armor (so you might buy a conversion kit to add a phaser to a Sherman, for instance).  They come pre-assembled and some of the older sets are even pre-primed.  They're ready for the table right out of the box and even unpainted models take a lot less time to finish.  Assembly and priming are my least favorite parts of this hobby.

    For purists, unassembled kits are available for many of the units in the game (and when available, they are somewhat less expensive).  But, best of all, for a reasonable upcharge, players can purchase the Premium models.  These are pre-assembled and prepainted by the studio to match the cover art on the box.  You might expect to pay a lot more for such a product but in most cases, they cost about twice what a ready-to-play, unpainted kit would go for.  In a previous article, I've already covered my reason why commission painters should usually ask for more than a model's value to paint it.  But the quality of the product is good and if you have the disposable income to afford it, you may prefer to go this route.  After all, as I mentioned in that same article, time is money.  If I couldn't afford to sell that level of work for that rate, it makes sense that buying it pre-painted might be better value for my time.

    Which leads me to the next big thing that DUST has going for it - and it's a BIG one:

This guy can punch. A PLANE. To DEATH.

 

4) The Price:  Those of you accustomed to spending exorbitant amounts on units or an army for Warhammer 40,000 will be quite disappointed - you won't see those kind of high prices in DUST!  For a standard 100-point army (the usual size of games in the USA) you'll invest right around $200.  And you'll generally only need three products to do so:  A starter box runs about $70 USD (more on that below), an army box (generally right around $100 USD) and a command squad (depending on the faction, this may vary but usually between $30-40 USD).  Of course you can add other individual models as your army changes or grows, but it has been a very long time since you could get a playable starting army for 40K, including rules, for $70 - and almost as long since you could get a full-sized force for $200.  As mentioned above, the rules and cards are available for free online and in the app (Note to DUST USA - Would it possible to incorporate a link to the rulebook within the app in future builds?)

Speaking of the Starter Boxes...

5) Everything You Need To Play:  As mentioned above, most of the various sub-factions among Axis, Allies, SSU, Mercenaries, the IJN (Imperial Japanese Navy) and Mythos (did I mention Lovecraftian horror is a thing in this game?)  have a starter box available.  These generally sell for around $70 USD and contain a barebones force (around 25 points) that's enough to get started in small games.  Typically there will be one Hero, a squad of soldiers, and a vehicle or walker.  But wait, there's more!  You also get a mini-rulebook, a pamphlet with the details for the units from the box and rules for a special platoon they can form, the reusable unit cards, a set of 12 dice for your faction, a punch out sheet of counters, some 2-D terrain tiles, a tank trap and an ammo crate, and best of all... a 2 foot by 3 foot neoprene game mat.  It's nice and thin, folds easily and rolls out with no wrinkles, and when you place yours side by side with someone else who bought a starter, you have a 3 by 4 foot (or a 2 by 6 if it suits you) gaming surface that's ready for action.  This is an incredible value - you'd pay a lot more than that for the 40k equivalent.

   

The Task Force Rhino starter set.  Heavy Rangers with Jet Packs and Rocket Punch!

 

    When you are ready to upgrade your army and play bigger games, you can get an Army Box for your faction.  These tend to include one walker or other vehicle, a heavy weapon crew, and two or three infantry squads.  Add a Command Squad (which contains an officer, a medic, a mechanic and one or more Heroes) and you have a 100-point force ready to play.

    While there is not currently one available, DUST has produced several two-player box sets in the past, and as with the starters, they cost significantly less than a comparable GW product. 

The Allied Rangers Army Box is the perfect addition to your Task Force Rhino starter!

The Heavy Ranger Headquarters and hero OZZ-117

And the one thing that really pivoted me from 40K to DUST:

6) No Churn:  As I mentioned, this game has been around for 10 years and no unit has been banned from play or removed from the game.  Nothing is relegated to some "legendary" status that means it's no longer supported and no longer valid for competitive play.  No, sir.  If they sold a unit, it's still got a card and you can still play it.

    And because the stats and skills are all on the cards, and the cards are all free in the app, you don't need to buy a new supplement every time there's a new edition of the rules.  And because the rules are also free online (and in starter sets), you don't even need to buy the rulebook when there's a new edition (and they don't change all the rules every 2-3 years like GW does).

    So just to make it clear, the only things you have to buy to play DUST... are the models themselves.  The starter boxes provide you with everything else you might need, and anything else is purely optional.

IN CONCLUSION

    So, there you have it.  A half dozen very good reasons why I'd rather invest my time and hobby dollars into DUST rather than GW products going forward.  Don't get me wrong, I still enjoy 40k - I've been playing it since the very beginning, I love the setting and the models and the large (though often toxic) community of players.  But what I don't love is having to buy a new rulebook, as well as a new Codex for each of my armies, every 2-3 years.  In the past 12 months, I've spent more on new books for my Space Marines than I would spend for an entire army for DUST.   And more then once over the years, I've had to relegate a model to the display shelf forever more (or in one case, snapped the arms of half an army because the unit could no longer use that weapon).  

    So is this the end of 40k for me?  Not at all.  I have a couple armies I want to paint up, as well as a very fleshed out background for a homebrew Successor Chapter (to be featured in a future article).  There are even a couple of kits I want to pick up to supplement my existing armies.  But I won't be buying every new release available for Space Marines, and I won't be doing any new armies beyond what I've got  in progress already.

    Even with GWs skirmish games, my spending is decreasing.  I'll get the occasional kit for my Goliaths (I've always loved Necromunda), I'll keep up with Kill Team books unless and until they make me buy a new edition (then all bets are off) and as for the brand-new release of Blood Bowl?  Of course I'm buying the rulebook, but I don't need the new box set (aside from the Dwarf Referee!).  I have my Fort Tyr Miners and my Doomtown Rats.  I don't need more teams or yet another pitch.

    In all honesty, I can't say I'll spend less on DUST than I currently do on GW games, but I can be sure I'll get more for my money, both in terms of models and of mileage.

If anything I've mentioned appeals to your interest, I encourage you to look into the game, see if any stores in your area carry the game, and perhaps you can even find an existing player to teach you the game!

HOW DO I GET OVER HOBBY BURNOUT?

Every other Sunday, "Uncle Atom" (Adam Loper) of Tabletop Minions hosts a two-hour live stream called, aptly enough, "The Every Other Sunday Show".  It's basically an open discussion that focuses in part on current events in gaming - whether that's an upcoming or recent convention, the release of a new game or model line, or some other topic of general interest.  But he also takes questions from viewers and these side topics often lead to interesting conversation.

One of the best questions that came up today is something I've heard many times before:

"What do I do about hobby burnout?  How do I get over it?"

Hobby burnout is something that many of us face from time to time - not just in gaming hobbies but in any of our interests.  Even when it's the ways we most enjoy spending our time, there comes a time when you just don't feel like doing it.  Could be for a short time - a few weeks, a month or two; or it could be a lot longer - months or even years.

First of all, this is normal, it's okay.  Our interests naturally wane and grow over time.  It's part of the human experience, and it keeps our recreation from feeling habitual.  Generally, we want to discover and explore new things.  Our brain chemistry is designed to reward us for doing so, which is why we participate in our favorite activities repeatedly and frequently.

But no matter who you are, we only have so many hours in a day.  Most of us have other obligations and demands on our time - whether that's work, or family, or even simply other non-gaming activities with friends.  That can be a good thing!  Variety, as they say, is the spice of life.  But it can also lend to feelings of guilt if we don't spend the free time we have left doing the things we enjoy - whether that's painting miniatures or playing a game.  And, ironically, that can sometimes make us less likely to want to do the things we otherwise enjoy.  Before you know it, weeks or months have passed.

But we're all in this hobby because it's something we enjoy - so, naturally, we want to keep it enjoyable.  But what is the best way to do so, and how do we get over that feeling of boredom or disinterest that sometimes keeps us from going back?

We have talked a little bit about this a few years back, but that was more about getting the motivation to finish a project.  Some of the things mentioned there still pertain to this issue also, so they bear repeating.

Some of these suggestions have a counterpoint - they may seem contradictory but that's just because there needs to be a balance.  Burnout usually is the result of taking something to extremes, so chances are you're at one end or the other of each situation.

Take some time off:  As "Brother Captain Arkhan" once said on the Bolter & Chainsword forums: "You cannot fertilize a field if it's Winter... wait for Spring again".  Sometimes all you need is a little time away.  Put it down for a few days, a week, even a month or two if that's what it takes.  Generally, you'll find yourself naturally drawn back to your hobby after you've had a little time to rest from it.  But what if you don't?

Look for new sources of inspiration: If you feel burned out by a game or a hobby project, put it down and do something else until that passion returns.  There are a lot of non-gaming sources where you might find inspiration - movies, books and magazines, even music.  Look for something related to what you are working on (most games have a considerable amount of related fiction - some good, some not so good) or seek out something new entirely!  

As "Brother Chaplain Kage" said on the Bolter & Chainsword : "If the spark has died, you need to find a new one."

Whether it's a new game, a different hobby, a TV series, or something else, I'm the sort of person who finds a topic of interest and immerses myself completely - thoroughly and intensely exploring everything I can about it.  After a while, I find myself oversaturated and before I get sick of it, I move on to doing something else.  But I always come back to each of my existing interests - whether it's weeks, months, or sometimes many years later.

But the upside of this near-obsessive focus is that I have discovered lots of new interests to keep things fresh.  I've discovered games I'd never have played otherwise, found new models and factions that make me want to try something new when it comes to painting them, and one other thing it's helped me to do is:

Make new friends... One of the first things I do when I find a new spark is to get on the Web and find forums, other blogs, or social media groups that share that interest.  It gives me access to a treasure trove of new ideas and discussionand helps to stoke my new-found interest.  But if you can find something local, that's even better!  Whether it's a Facebook group for gamers in your city, or a game club at a local store, you can find people who share your passion for the hobby, or your new game.

...but avoid toxic people!  One of the downsides of Internet "communities" is the anonymity and lack of accountability that comes along with it.  Some places keep things civil and polite (whether because of the caliber of participant, or the effectiveness of moderation), while others are "wretched hives of scum and villainy".  If you come across people who are overly confrontational or lack respect, utilize whatever means are at your disposal to ignore, block or mute them.  Resist the temptation to engage and fuel the flames. If that sort of behavior is more prevalent or seems to be endorsed by the hosts, look somewhere else.

The same goes for local gaming groups or pick-up games at a store.  Generally, people behave better in face-to-face situations, but we've all heard stories of "That Guy" - the one who twists or breaks the rules to his advantage, who gets his fun at the sake of yours, or just is no fun to play with.  These people can ruin a game for a new player.  The best thing to do is to pack up and find someone (or somewhere) else to play.  Soon enough, you'll find yourself with new friends who might share more than just your interest in games.  When you have friends who share other interests, activities and hobbies, you'll find your gaming time with them is even more rewarding.

Try something new...  Chances are, you're trying to grind through some project that you'd really like to finish, but you've spent too long doing too much of the same.  Of course you'd like to play that new 2000-point Ultramarine army you've been itching to try, but halfway through you are sick of so much blue and can't bring yourself to paint another Marine.  That's OK, put the current project aside and work on a different one.  Refresh yourself by painting a warband from a different game or a team for Blood Bowl or Guild Ball, or a Necromunda gang or something.  Just don't get involved in something equally as large or daunting.  That's why I like skirmish games.

... but don't get into too many projects at once!  It's all too easy when changing things up, to suddenly find yourself halfway through not one project, but three or four.  That's as discouraging (possibly moreso) than one unfinished project.  So take a moment to consider one question:

What's the "One"?  Identify one thing as your "main" project and make sure that's what you keep coming back to.  Don't be afraid to set it aside (or even step away completely) from time to time, but the feeling of satisfaction from finally finishing a squad or a team (or even an entire army!) is very rewarding.  

Okay, your hobby doesn't have to make you feel like this ALL the time,

but you get the idea.

Put aside the distractions:  While playing a video game or watching your favorite shows may be a good break to recover from your burnout, take care not to let them distract you from your hobby for so long that you just don't care to return.  The rewarding thing about this hobby is that it's interactive - even if you are a painter who doesn't play any games, you're still a participant and not merely an observer.  Some people watch TV shows in the background while they are painting - but I can't help but think that this doesn't possibly help to focus on what you're actually doing.

For instance, I find Minecraft to be an incredibly enjoyable distraction - quite possibly the most advanced time-wasting invention of its time - but my painting table is just to the right and when I look at the unfinished squad I'm looking forward to playing, I realize that breaking rocks won't get them done.  I can imagine that I'll be spending a lot of hobby time on the new Battletech video game once I get it - but there's also a very good possibility that it will reignite my interest in the game it's based on, and I fondly recall all the weekly games we played all through my college years.  I've still got some of the 'Mechs I painted 30 years ago, and they're honestly not too badly painted (I regret giving away the rest of them - more on that later).

Clear up the clutter... Many times, all that's discouraging us is clutter - whether its an untidy painting area, disorganized bookshelves, or drawers (or even closets) full of things you want to get around to eventually.  That backlog can be daunting, and might even put you off from working on your current project.

Take the time to organize your workspace and your shelves.  Put all the stuff you're not working on out of sight - stow all those unopened boxes and unpainted models and sprues.  Make sure everything in your painting area is tidy and close to hand - and that the models on your desk are just your current project, and maybe the one side project you work on when you need to switch things up.  

If you know you've got games or armies that you'll never play again, consider selling them - but don't fall into the trap of getting rid of something you'll wind up buying again when the interest returns.  I've had to sell armies (or even most of my gaming stuff) before, solely out of financial necessity - and I've hated having to pay all over again to get what I had before.  But there was also the bitter realization that if I hadn't bought all the never-finished kits in the first place, I wouldn't have had a need to sell them.  Controlling impulse spending keeps your backlog down and your money free for other things.

Off the top of your head, can you actually list all the unfinished kits you have?

Look back on your past accomplishments:  Whether it's recalling the stories of memorable game sessions with your friends, looking at (or touching up) models on the shelf from years ago, or looking over pictures of your past work and seeing how far you've come, all of these things can help to remind you why you love the hobby and all the fun it's brought you.

You can also find inspiration by checking out the work of fellow hobbyists - whether it's a blog or pictures of their work.  Sometimes you'll find new ideas to try or the motivation to return to your project - just don't get discouraged by it!  I've seen work that's so amazing that I'll never equal it, no matter how much practice I get (I know my limitations) but that's not going to be an excuse to stop trying!

Don't force it:  Sometimes, we cling to something (whether it's an army, or a game) long after we've stopped enjoying it.  Are you forcing yourself to play an army (or possibly an entire game) that you never really liked, because maybe things were different in the last edition - and now they're not, but you already sunk all that time and money into them?  Give yourself permission to make the break from it.  Sell the army to someone who will enjoy it - but if you still enjoy the game itself, use the funds to try an army that appeals to you.  Don't base it solely on how powerful they are at the moment - or you're just trading one problem for another.  Don't go all in on the flavor of the month - find an army (or a new game) that you like for more reasons than that.  Can you identify with your new faction in some way? Do they look cool? Will they be fun to paint, and fun to play?  Will you enjoy them even if they don't win every game?  Love what you paint and love what you play, and you'll find the hobby fun no matter how the dice roll.

BUT HERE IS THE NUMBER ONE WAY TO GET OVER BURNOUT...

Remember that this is supposed to be all about FUN.  If it's not fun, why are you doing it?  If it feels like work, wouldn't it be better to do something that pays?  If your army or your game (or whatever) isn't bringing you joy, find something that does.  Get out and play a few games with your friends (old or new).  Find something fun to paint and play.  Before you know it, you'll be enjoying the hobby once more.

Do you have other ways you've used to get over hobby burnout?  Share them in the comments!

The Necromunda Bug Bites Again!

As you've seen, I've recently been working on my new Adeptus Custodes army, while trying to finish my Goliath gang for Necromunda.  I've spent the last couple weekends working on the skin and hair for these roid-raging slabs of beef and it's coming along nicely.  Still quite a way to go but as I've said before, even if you can only spend 15 minutes or half an hour working on something, it's still that much closer to finished!

(The other six need their arms glued on after I've painted the bodies)

But, like many hobbyists, I like to keep some variety in my projects so that it never gets tedious.  That does mean I've got a growing backlog of other projects - despite an earlier article about why that's inadvisable.  But I suppose that makes me just like most of the rest, right?

So two other projects have worked their way into the queue.  When the rules for Genestealer Cults in Necromunda appeared in last month's White Dwarf, I figured I'd give them a go.  From the beginning, Necromunda has seemed like the ideal game for a small force of Genestealer cultists to appear.  There were rules for them in Shadow War: Armageddon, and despite some players thinking that such cults were out of place in this setting, I think that an Underhive is the perfect place for an alien cult to fester and spread.

I was reading some articles and watching videos on color theory (something I recommend every painter should do!) and I thought that orange would be a striking contrast to the blue carapace and lilac skin of Genestealer Hybrids.  A couple of Cults use that color scheme - the Cult of the Rusted Claw and the Cult Hydraic.  I think orange would look great on the hazard suits - kind of like the work suits of Brokkrs in Warpath, or flight suits in Star Wars.  Something like these dapper gents, painted by Darren Latham, who also sculpted the Genestealer Hybrid line:

And to see how that kind of scheme looks when we add in the blue carapace and spot colors, these Metamorphs from GW:

I haven't given too much consideration to the loadouts or roster, though my goal is to have a team that can be used in Necromunda and Shadow War interchangeably.  As for the weapons, I plan to go for form over function.  While certain guns might be more effective, I'm likely going to use as much repurposed mining equipment as possible.  I like the idea of Hybrids that have infiltrated the work force and steal their gear from work when the revolution begins.  Mining lasers, drills, saws, cutters, picks and dynamite... it may not be as good as heavy stubbers, shotguns and flamers but it will still be fun!

It will be a little while before I can get around to them but I'm hoping to make that my next project behind the Goliaths.  My FLGS is starting a new league in a few weeks and if I have my Goliaths done, I might actually get to play for a change! (See last week's article for more on that.)

So I stopped into my local Warhammer store to pick up a box of Acolyte Hybrids, and what do I see?  Yes, House Orlock was released a couple weeks ago.  I was kind of lukewarm about them in original Necromunda - they kind of looked like a bunch of dudes who washed out of Cobra-Kai or failed auditions for Rambo.  But my friend Don played them in our league back then and did well.  All of his gangers were named after famous serial killers, which is kind of disturbing until you consider how life in the Underhive is even worse.

But these new Orlocks look badass.  They have a unique appearance that's full of character.  In a way, they sort of remind me of the '80s classic movie The Warriors.  Here's the picture from their web store:

Look at them!  Stubbers with drum mags.... Tommy guns!  The leader's got a low-tech power fist!  And who else (besides Scalies) would use a harpoon gun in the Underhive?  I am going to need to pick up more of those nifty Underhive bases though.

In honor of Don's gang from the good old days, I am going to name them The Ripperjacks.  A Ripperjack is a predatory animal in the Underhives, kind of a cross between a bat and a Facehugger from Alien.  They drop onto their prey and bite out its eyes while tearing its throat open or choking with their long prehensile tail.  It sounds like the sort of thing that would be chosen for a gang name in the Underhive - and it's also a nod to Jack the Ripper, something Don would approve.  Come to think of it, maybe that will be the name of my leader...

This is why I love skirmish games - and particularly why Necromunda remains my all-time favorite.  You can take your time coming up with background and lavish extra time making a dozen guys look great - and then have time to play.

Even though three gangs sounds like a lot of work, it's still only a few dozen models - smaller than my long-term 2000-point Dark Angels army.  My goal is to get them all ready for the table by my birthday in June - it may not happen because I'm terrible with goals and deadlines make a hobby feel like work, but I'm putting that out there as a challenge to myself (and in the hopes that you all will keep me accountable).

Necromunda players - What's your favorite House, and why?  What sort of Gang do you play?  What are they called?  Got any pictures or stories to share?  Let us know!