THE PAINTING PROCESS: STEP-BY-STEP

If you have followed all of the previous articles, you already know everything you need to paint your first miniature. Today's article is going to break down the various stages of the process, from purchasing the miniature to making it suitable for play or display.


Start Simple
If you're eager to get out there and buy some awesome, impressive model to try out your new-found skills, I applaud your enthusiasm. But I'd recommend you try something less complex first, until you have some experience and practice with the techniques. For our first Learn To Paint article (coming soon), I will be walking you through painting a basic Space Marine tactical trooper.

Trying to paint something with lots of fiddly little details the first time out can lead to frustration and dissatisfaction with the end result. If you've already bought some paints, good brushes and hobby tools, you've invested some money in this hobby. It would be unfortunate for your first efforts to lead to discouragement.

That said, don't feel too bad about what you do when you are just starting out! Nobody puts out studio-quality work on their first attempts (most of us can't do it after decades in the hobby). Even the greatest miniature painters have spent many years and thousands of hours perfecting their techniques.

No matter how far you come in this hobby, don't ever stop learning. Being open to new ideas, new methods and refinements of your technique will help you to continually improve. Even though I now write a painting blog, I still visit other blogs and forums and watch a lot of videos from people who get better results than me. I want to learn how they do it - and after I learn how to do it myself, I want to share it with others. It's an ongoing process of learning and growth, and it can yield immense satisfaction when you look at your latest work next to your previous work and see the difference.

A very important thing to remember: At some point in the painting of any given miniature, you may look at it in disgust and wonder why you want to bother to finish it. This is natural. Even after all these years, it happens to me on a regular basis. It's like remodelling a house - midway through the process, it looks like a mess. Remember that intermediate steps are not indicative of the finished result. Take a little time away from the piece if you must, and when you're ready to tackle it again, soldier on through it! If you do everything with care and patience, in the end you will have a miniature you can be proud of.


Cleaning and Assembly
So now, you have purchased your first miniature and you're ready to get started. We covered this process in "Preparing And Assembling Your Model" (01/28/15). Be sure to wash the mold release agents off of the miniature before you begin. Pay close attention to mold lines - areas like the sides of the head, shoulders, knees and hands are often easily missed. Scrape, sand and file these away as necessary.

If your mini is a multi-part model, glue it together and allow time for it to dry before you continue. You will want to make sure you can handle it during painting without spoiling your work, so glue it to a base or secure it in some other fashion. Some hobbyists pin the feet and then stick the mini into a cork or an alligator clip (XActo makes a "Helping Hands" workstation with clips and a magnifier). However you do it, make sure you don't need to touch the parts you're painting.


Undercoat the Miniature
Now that your model is cleaned, assembled and dry, apply a spray or brush on undercoat to prime the figure for painting. This process was covered in "Choosing and Using the Right Paints: Part Three - Primer" (01/29/15). Remember to apply thin coats of primer so as not to obscure detail, and if using a spray primer, be sure the weather outside is neither too hot nor too cold, neither too dry nor too humid, and not windy. Yes, optimal conditions for spraying primer (or topcoat) are very fussy - this is why a good brush-on product is the better choice.

For best results, remember to select an undercoat color that is appropriate to the colors you will be using on the model, and the desired effect. Black undercoats yield a more shaded, muted end result; white undercoats yield a brighter end product but may be harder to cover with colors like yellow or red. If a primer exists in the main color of your base coat, you will save some time in that step as well.


Wash Your Hands!
This is a recommendation that applies through every step of the process. The natural oils on your skin can leave fingerprints on the model, and if you paint over those areas, the finish will be affected. You also may have dust and flecks of plastic or metal on your fingers from cleaning a model, and you don't want that getting on or into your nice paint job.

It's quite likely you will get paint on your fingers when working on a miniature or from opening paint jars. Be careful - nothing spoils a great job like a paint smudge or fingerprint in another color, where it doesn't belong. Check and wash your hands often. Some painters wear rubber or nitrile examination gloves when working, to avoid fingerprints and for quick cleanup.


Stirring is Better Than Shaking
This is not James Bond's martini. You want to make sure your paint is evenly mixed in the bottle or pot before working with it. The pigment and binder have a tendency to naturally separate between uses, and so you'll have a thicker mix at the bottom and a watery liquid near the top.

The reason you want to mix your paints by stirring instead of shaking is simple: When you shake any liquid, air bubbles are introduced into the mix. You may notice with some washes or shades that there is a foam at the top of the pot after shaking. If you must shake a paint, wait for the bubbles to settle before you begin using the color.

If you are using dropper bottles, you usually won't be able to stir (unless you take off the nozzle, for instance when doing paint maintenance). Some people take off the nozzle and drop one or two BB's into each dropper bottle before using, to improve agitation and mixing when shaking. If you choose to do this, be sure to use something that won't interact with the paint or clog your nozzle.,

For flip-top or screw-off paint pots, stir with the handle of an old brush or anything of similar dimensions. You may feel a little resistance at first as your stirrer moves through the thicker part at the bottom. Continue to stir thoroughly until the paint is of an even consistency and color.


Remember to Thin
To achieve a uniform finish without brush marks and to preserve fine detail, remember that several thin coats are better than one thick one. This will also help you to build up color in desired areas without making the surface look like it's bee covered in paint. Be sure the consistency is even and remember that paints that are too thin will flow messily. You don't want your basecoat or layers to be as thin as a wash or glaze.


Apply Basecoat
Apply each of the principal, underlying colors to the appropriate areas of the model. For instance, when painting a Space Wolf, apply a thin coat of fleshtone to the face and any other exposed areas such as hands or arms; basecoat the weapons and flex joints in black; paint the armored areas in a blue grey; basecoat the areas that will be fur, bone or gold in a brown; and paint the shoulder pad, hair and other parts accordingly.

You will want to use a somewhat larger brush when basecoating the model. Many painters use a Size 1 or 2 brush for much of their basecoating. Citadel brushes are named according to their intended purpose, and if you are using a P3 brush, the Base Hobby Brush is probably the right size for most of your basecoating purposes.

The best way to go about basecoating is to use the "inside to outside" method. Paint the skin and hair, then the clothing, then the armor and finally the equipment. This will help to ensure that any mistakes you make by overpainting will be covered by the basecoat for the next area. However, sometimes you may wish to basecoat other areas first, if you know that your technique for shading or highlighting might spoil another area you have already painted. Some painters will apply basecoat, shading, layers and highlighting to an entire area before working on other parts. It depends on the miniature and your desired effect.


Apply Shading and Washes
Once the base coats are all dry, now you will want to shade the model to bring out the darker areas and recesses and to highlight detail. You will want to use a larger brush that's devoted specifically to this purpose, as washes can ruin the point of your good brushes much more rapidly. Citadel makes a Wash Brush, or you can use another Base Hobby Brush or a brush of a similar size. These don't need to be your expensive Kolinsky brushes, but you'll still want a brush with good natural bristles that don't come out when working.

The easiest way to do this is to apply a Citadel Shade or another brand of ink wash. The most versatile and effective products I've used for this purpose are Army Painter's Quick Tone line - particularly Soft Tone, Strong Tone and Dark Tone. Soft tone yields a sort of sepia effect and is good for skin and a slightly muted but richer effect on bright colors. Strong Tone is like Citadel's Devlan Mud or Agrax Earthshade (only better!) - it brings out details and relief when used on the entire model, and is ideal for hair, fur, leather, bone, and more weathered skin. Strong Tone or an equivalent will probably be your most-used shading product. Finally, Dark Tone is a black wash that yields the highest contrast and relief. It is ideal for armor panels, weapons, joints and other areas where you want a really dark effect.

Citadel makes a wide variety of shade washes, as do other brands like Vallejo and Army Painter. Depending on the model, you may find a wash that is ideal for your base colors. Take care to let the shade on each area dry completely before applying a different shade to another area, or else you may find that the washes run together and ruin the effect.

The most advanced painters will often use a thinned-down paint of a darker tone to shade each area, applying shading precisely with a brush rather than over an entire area with a wash. This is a more time-consuming process requiring greater patience, but the results are the best! Regardless of the method you use, take care to apply the shade carefully to the desired areas. You won't usually slather the entire model with a wash or "dip", because that just makes it harder to tidy up areas that don't need shading. When thinning colors for shades or washes, use a transparent medium (like Citadel's Lahmian Medium) whenever possible. An opaque thinner like AV Thinner can affect the color, while water may affect the flow and self-levelling characteristics you desire in a wash.


Applying Layers
Once your shades have had ample time to dry completely, tidy up the model by carefully reapplying basecoat colors to areas where shade may have gone unwanted. When you have done this, your model should have a neat appearance, with shading only in intended areas. The ideal brush for layering is a Size 0 brush, Citadel Standard (or Detail) brush, or a P3 Work Studio Brush.

Now you can begin to build up the desired colors and natural highlighting by applying one or more layers to each area. Your paint can be somewhat thinner than your base coats, as you'll be building on the existing colors with more translucent layers. Most paint lines have complementary tones for basecoats, shading and highlighting. Some advanced painters will mix bit by bit to build up the desried finish, but you can achieve great results simply by using the right choice of colors at this stage. Take care not to get your layer colors onto adjacent sections or into shaded areas. What you are doing at this stage is helping to build a natural progression from areas of shade toward highlights.

A good example of layering is when painting faces - you might start with a deeper or more ruddy base coat, shading it with Flesh Wash, and then layering the cheeks, nose, forehead, chin and ears with a slightly lighter tone before proceeding to highlight the very edges of those areas.


Highlighting and Drybrushing
Again, allow your final layers to dry before proceeding. Now you will apply highlighting to the most raised or well-lighted areas of your figure. The simplest way to do this is by drybrushing. You usually do not need to thin your paints when performing this technique, and you will certainly not want to use a good brush to do this. Many brush lines have a specific drybrush in various sizes, or you can use a brush that's lost its ability to hold a tip.

To drybrush, dip your brush partway into the desired highlight color and then wipe most of it off onto a paper towel. You want your brush to be very dry so that the paint does not flow from the bristles, but rather clings only to the most raised areas of the model's surface. Drag or flick the brush lightly along the area to be highlighted. You will notice the color is deposited only on the raised surfaces. You may want to do a second, lighter drybrush highlight with a lighter color - in this case, you don't usually need to rinse the brush between these steps - but be sure to wash it thoroughly when done, because paint really gets up into the bristles.

Drybrushing is an easy and effective method to bring out highlights, but it can cause your miniature to have a sort of "chalky" finish to it. After drybrushing, you may want to tidy up some spots with your previous layer color, or apply a wash or glaze to unify the finish. We will talk more about that in the next step.

As your skill increases, you may find yourself doing drybrushed highlights less often, and instead preferring to paint highlights carefully onto the model directly. Some areas like mail armor, fur, or weapons are always easier just to drybrush, but the edges of armor plates or the features of a face look much better with edge highlighting.

This requires a finer brush and much thinner consistency of paint, as well as a careful hand - but the results look much nicer than a drybrush highlight. An ideal brush would be a size 00 (sometimes called 2/0), Citadel Fine Detail Brush or P3 Fine Studio Brush. Just load a little of your thinned paint onto the brush and carefully draw the edge (not the tip) along the area to be highlighted. Done properly, the effect is fantastic! Citadel makes a small line of Edge paints for this purpose - I have found Blue Horror to be the perfect color for edge highlighting my Space Wolves.


Apply Glaze or Wash (optional)
Especially if you have used drybrushing to highlight an area, you may find that the result looks a bit "chalky" and unnatural. Or, you may just desire a richer, more vibrant color to unify a look or to bring out the best results on surfaces that are supposed to look like cloth. In these cases, use a glaze of the desired primary or secondary color appropriate to the colors beneath. This glaze is much thinner than the washes you may have used for shading, and should be an almost transparent application of color. Thin with Lahmian Medium or other transparent medium, or carefully with water. Be sure to allow each color to dry fully before glazing an adjacent area.


Apply a Protective Topcoat
Once you have finished painting your model, you will want to seal it with a clear varnish to ensure that your hard work is protected from chips, wear, and the inevitable handling it will encounter on the tabletop. Depending on how you base your model, you may do this step before or after finishing the model's base. If you are using ballast and rocks (or Citadel Texture for lower-quality line troops), you can topcoat the model after the base is done. If using flock, static grass, tufts or other similar product, seal it beforehand so as not to affect the look of the base.

If the weather is favorable, you may wish to apply a spray topcoat. Be sure that the product you are using is suitable for acrylic paints and be sure not to apply it too heavily. As with primer, you want a thin and uniform coating. Whether you use gloss, satin or matte varnish is a matter of personal preference - gloss varnish is more durable for models that will be handled extensively, but on most areas the finish does not look natural (and it photographs poorly). Matte varnish looks more natural, but may make some areas look dull. A satin varnish may be the best of both worlds, depending on the look you are aiming for. Most of the major hobby paint brands also manufacture a clear spray varnish in one or more types of luster.

When using a spray topcoat, it is extremely important that you are mindful of heat and humidity. If it's too hot or dry outside, the varnish will dry with a granular look. Too cold, and it will run. More importantly, humidity is the enemy of clearcoats. Spray when it's too muggy outside, and you'll find all of your hard work is now encased in a kind of cloudy layer of varnish. It's possible to rehabilitate these afflicted models in various ways, but the best advice is not to spray when the weather isn't right - or, better yet, to avoid spray varnish at all (until you have more experience).

If weather conditions are not favorable for spraying, or if you want different levels of shine on different areas of a model, you might want to consider a brush-on clearcoat. Citadel makes a 'Ardcoat varnish, and most other brands have a comparable product, but I am partial to Vallejo acrylic varnishes. I keep one of each type on hand to be sure I always have the desired result. As with shade washes or glazes, make sure each area is fully dry before applying varnish of a different luster to an adjacent area - and be extremely careful not to handle the figure until it's fully dry, or you will get fingerprints in the topcoat.


SUMMARY
If you've followed these steps carefully and patiently, you should have your first fully painted miniature, ready to play or display proudly. Even if you've done some painting before, you may find that your results are better than anything you've ever done before! Just remember - you can paint miniatures, and you can do it well. The secret ingredients are patience and careful application. The former comes from the proper state of mind, the latter is the inevitable result of experience and attention. If you take pride in your work and adopt a professional approach, you'll get results far better than you ever have before - and your armies will be the envy of your opponents when they face you across the table.

Do not underestimate the psychological benefit of a better-painted army. You may find that you play better than your opponent, whose models are hastily painted or not painted at all. They will feel less secure when facing your beautiful miniatures, and you will be more confident. It may sound crazy to say that a better-painted army is more likely to be victorious, but it can give you the edge you need to achieve victory!

Next week, we will do a step-by-step beginner's painting tutorial.  I had planned on using the Space Marine Paint Set. This kit contains small pots of 10 colors, a brush, and three Space Marines for you to practice on. However, the kit at the local hobby store was unsuitable - the paint appeared dried up in some of the containers, and seemed to be leaking out of another.  So... I'm not sure I'd recommend it as a "getting started" purchase.  I'll see if I can't find something more suitable, but either way we'll do a step-by-step guide, and a list of what paints to use. The tutorial will be accompanied by a list of other things you might need for best results, and pictures of each step in the process. Stay Tuned!

CHOOSING (AND USING) THE RIGHT PAINTS: PART FOUR - Consistency and Flow

Up to this point, we have discussed everything needed to get started in painting miniatures. We talked about the best brushes to use, the preferred types and brands of paints for best results, the tools you will need to assemble and prepare your models, and priming a figure that's been assembled and cleaned up.

Now, after a week of preliminary articles, we can get down to the main event - painting a miniature. But let's not be hasty - patience and knowledge are our allies in doing the best work possible. Before dunking your brush in a paint pot and spreading it over the figure, let's talk about the best ways to ensure that your paint has the proper consistency to flow correctly off your brush, and how to keep those expensive brushes lasting as long as possible.


Rule One: Do Not Paint Directly From The Pot!
This is advice you may have heard before, though you may not know the reasons why experienced painters repeat it so often. Actually, there are two important reasons, so let's talk a bit about each of them.

First of all, if you dunk your brush right into the pot, you run the risk of getting paint up into and under the ferrule. This can cause the bristles to splay, meaning you lose that nice tip and the ability to precisely apply paint to the miniature. You'll need to clean your brushes more often and probably more aggressively if you habitually do this, which can drastically reduce the lifespan of the brushes. This is inadvisable because a good brush is your most important tool and your most expensive investment. You don't want to be laying out that kind of money for new brushes every week or even every month if it can be avoided.

Get yourself a palette for your paint. If you have a brush tub like the kind featured in "Having the Right Materials", the inside of the lid is the perfect palette. You can use any flat, non-porous surface, but I prefer the kind that have dimples to keep colors from flowing into others, and a larger central area for those times you do want to blend.

If you're using paint in dropper bottles (like the AV Game Colors), just add a few drops to one of the dimples. You don't need a lot, and we'll see why in a moment. If you're using traditional paint pots, transfer the paint from the jar to the palette with a large brush or a pipette. I have an old eyedropper from a medicine bottle that works fine - but a glass one is easier to clean than a plastic one.

If you use a dropper, take care not to draw in so much paint that it enters the rubber bulb - otherwise you'll need to take it apart to clean it. Regardless of whether you use a dropper or a large brush to transfer paint, be sure to clean it thoroughly and immediately. Otherwise you run the risk of contaminating your paints with other colors.

The other reason you don't want to paint directly from the pot is that the paint in the pot is almost certainly too thick to ensure good flow from the brush and an even consistency to the coat. Experienced painters may thin the paint right in the pot to ensure it has the right consistency, but until you get the hang of the right mix, it's more advisable to thin it a little bit at a time on the palette. If you thin it too much, you've only wasted a few drops - but if you overthin it in the pot, you'll be buying a new jar. This leads us to the next rule...


Rule Two: Thin your Paints. Thin Your Paints, Thin Your Paints!
I said it three times because it bears repeating. I have never, in all my years in this hobby, found a paint that is of the right consistency straight out of the bottle. The main thing we want to achieve by thinning our paints, is to ensure that the paint is not drying on the brush before we have the opportunity to apply it properly to the model. If you don't thin your paints, they will not flow properly from the brush, which will make it difficult to apply it precisely to the model and can lead to an uneven application and brush marks.

You don't want the model to look like it's covered in paint, you want it to look like that's the color it was made of in the first place. The best way to ensure a convincing and appealing finish is to apply the paint in several thin coats, building up the color without obscuring the detail. That's a very important thing to remember:

Several thin coats of paint will give better results than one thick coat. Of the preferred brands we discussed in Part Two of this series, Formula P3 is the hands-down winner for thinning. The liquid pigment ensures that the color remains uniform, without separation or loss of brightness. This also makes them excellent as glazes or washes, which will be covered in a later intermediate article.

Let's take a moment to talk about the various things we might use to thin our paints. The first (and most commonly used) thinner is water. It's easy to get and is basically free. But it's not the best choice in many situations. Tap water can contain impurities and may be too "hard" for painting, but water from a softener still contains sodium. If you choose to use water for thinning, I would recommend distilled water or purified bottled water. A little bit goes a long way, so the expense is still almost negligible. Some paint brands thin better with water than others - Formula P3 being the most notable winner in this case.

The other commonly-available household thinner is isopropyl alcohol. I would advise against using this to thin your paints for a couple of reasons. Alcohol is a volatile solution, and thus you will find that paints thinned with it may dry more rapidly . This may be an effect sought by advanced painters in certain situations, but the whole point of this article is about keeping paint from drying too fast. You probably will not find that flow is improved in paints thinned with alcohol. Aside from thinning paints for use in an airbrush, the only time I have used it is when trying to rehabilitate a pot of paint that has started to thicken into a gel. Also, as mentioned in the article on brushes, cleaning a brush with alcohol is not recommended. It can strip the natural preservatives from the sable hairs and may dissolve the glue binding the bristles together in the ferrule.


There are many commercial products that are excellent for thinning. Vallejo makes a liquid thinner that is excellent for this purpose. It is available in a standard 17ml dropper bottle and in a larger size as well. It is what I used to use most commonly, before I developed my own formula for thinner (which I will cover in a later article).  However, it is a white liquid - while it does not change the color of the paint when dry, it can make your paint look like a different shade on the palette. If you keep this in mind and trust that the results will be correct, it is an excellent choice. If you are thinning inks or glazes, however, you are better off using water or a transparent medium.


Another great choice is Citadel's Lahmian Medium (also sold as 'Eavy Metal Medium). This is a clear liquid that is designed for thinning paints, inks, glazes and washes. It can also be used to prepare a surface for transfers, but we won't be talking about that any time soon. It's a good choice if you want to use your opaque colors make washes or glazes. Using a medium will allow you to thin a wash to reduce the intensity of the color without affecting its flow characteristics the way that water would. We will talk more about that in an upcoming article about glazes, washes, and inks. If you can find this product, give it a try!

Other choices to investigate are those products known as "flow improvers", "extenders" or "retarders". You will find these manufactured by various companies such as Liquitex, Vallejo, Winsor & Newton, and others. Be sure you are selecting a product designed for use with acrylic paints. Flow improvers work pretty much as the name suggests - improving how the paint flows from the brush and on the surface. Extenders and retarders increase the working time available, allowing for blending and other special techniques . All of these products have one common characteristic - they mean the paint will take longer to dry. Keep this in mind when handling your model.


Are there any times I don't want to thin my paints?
Yes, in fact, there are several applications for which thinning the paint may not be recommended. First of all, you should not need to thin your primer - if you do, I'd say that you're using the wrong kind of primer! The AV Surface Primer does not need dilution to apply a thin, uniform coat.

Another application that works best with un-thinned paints is drybrushing, which we will discuss in further detail in an upcoming article. For now, it's important to note that when drybrushing, you don't want the paint to flow off the brush in the same way as you would when applying base coats, layers, or edge highlights.

Generally speaking, you will not usually want to dilute a commercially available wash or glaze. Citadel Shades already have the proper consistency to settle in the recesses of a model, and glazes lose some of their color saturation and brilliance when thinned. If you want the same effects, but less color, be sure to use a transparent medium to thin these paints, instead of something like the AV Thinner.

How much should I thin my paints?That's a question that does not have a "one size fits all" kind of answer. Generally speaking, you want to thin the paint until it has the consistency of milk. This will give it enough viscosity to stay where you apply it, without going on too thick.

Depending on the paint and the kind of thinner you are using, you should aim for a 1-to-1 ratio of paint to thinner. Until you have some experience working with thinned paints, I suggest trying this out on a miniature that you don't care too much about. Paints that are thinned too much will flow all over the model, ruining it and defeating the purpose of thinning the paint, which is to provide an even and controlled application. Sometimes, I'll touch the tip of the brush lightly to a paper towel after loading it - excess moisture will be wicked away while the paint remains in the bristles.


Rule Three: Don't overload your brush.
Once you have your paint thinned to the proper consistency, take care in loading the brush with paint. Don't mash it straight down into the mix - draw it gently into the paint until it flows about halfway up the bristles. You want enough paint in the belly of the brush, but you never want to get paint up into or under the ferrule.

Having properly loaded your brush, apply the paint to the desired surface by holding the brush at an angle and drawing the tip gently along the area to be painted. Again, you don't want to "scrub" or mash the brush down. Let capillary action do the work for you - this will result in a more precise and even coat of paint.


SUMMARY
So now you know the essentials of preparing your paint to the proper consistency so that it will flow onto and off of the brush properly, without going on too thick and without drying on the brush too rapidly. That concludes our introductory series on choosing and using the right paints.

If you've followed along with the daily articles, you should now be ready to begin painting! Upcoming articles will examine the step-by-step process of painting an individual miniature from start to finish. This process will be broken down into in-depth examinations of basecoating, shading, layers, highlighting and glazes, and sealing the finished miniature to protect all of your careful work. Thanks for reading!

CHOOSING (AND USING) THE RIGHT PAINTS: PART THREE - Primer

                In the two previous articles of this series, we talked about what type of paint to use, what brands are recommended, and what colors to choose when getting started.  The third segment of the series will deal with the first of the auxiliary products you will want to have on hand to get the best results.

What is an "Auxiliary" product?

                This term refers to products that are not strictly "paint" in and of themselves, but are instead products which are applied prior to painting, used to shade, or used to finish a painted model.  To obtain the best results, they are equally as important as your basic paints - and used properly, they can make even the simplest paint job look even more spectacular!

Step One: Primer

Why do I need to prime a model?  Why can't I just start with the base coat?

                That's a question I've heard frequently from inexperienced painters.  Uusually the question is followed some time later by "Why does it take so many base coats to cover this bare metal?" or "Why do my figures all seem to chip and the paint rubs off?"

                Primer exists for a very specific and important purpose.  A bare metal or plastic miniature is very smooth and doesn't offer a good texture to which we will apply a base coat.  Primer is formulated to adhere to a surface and offer a good "tooth" for a basecoat to be applied.  Furthermore, standard paints do not offer the level of resistance to wear and chipping that a gaming miniature will need.  Unless you're sealing your finished model in a showcase, never to be played with, this is a very important consideration.  A good undercoat will improve the durability of your work.

                A lot of people use basic automotive primer (like Rustoleum) to prime their models.  This has the benefit of giving an extremely durable base upon which to paint, but even when done properly, it can obscure the fine details on the miniature if you want an even coat.  If you are going to use a spray primer, I would recommend one specifically designed for miniatures.  Citadel and Army Painter make spray primers for this purpose.

                What color you use depends on what you are painting.  If you're going for brighter colors, a white primer is recommended.  If you want the overall look of the finished product to be darker and more muted, a black primer is the way to go.  Later on, I'll be discussing a couple of ways to use a black primer to really bring out highlights and details on a mini.  A grey primer is a good choice for a "middle of the road" overall hue. 

                If you are painting a particular type of model, you may find that the Citadel or Army Painter line of sprays or the AV line of liquid primer (more on this shortly) have a specific color that's perfect for your models!  When painting Space Wolves (my favorite), Blood Angels, Dark Angels, Ultramarines or even Orcs, there's a color primer that's a perfect match.  This will save you a couple of layers on the base coat, preserving the detail of your model.

                If using any aerosol product (primer, basecoat or varnish), please keep the following things in mind:

Spray outdoors or in a ventilated spray booth - even in acrylic spray, the organic vapors from the solvents in the spray can cause short-term symptoms like headache and difficulty breathing.  Prolonged misuse can make these problems permanent, and can literally make you stupid.

Do not spray in times of high humidity - Even if your porch or garage is sheltered from rainfall, the humidity in the air can become trapped within the spray coating you are applying.  This can lead to a nasty texture that is impossible to remove, and if it's a topcoat, can become cloudy, permanently ruining all of your hard work.  Wait until it's dry out or use a brush-on topcoat indoors.

Make sure the temperature is moderate - If it's really hot outside when you spray, the paint will actually dry before it reaches the model and you'll find the undercoat has a granular texture.  If it's too cold, the undercoat will take too long to dry and may run on the model.  The closer the outdoor weather is to room temperature, the better your results will be!

Shake Well! - Shake the can until it starts to rattle, and then continue shaking for 30-60 seconds to really mix the paint with the propellant.

Sweep each spray evenly across the model - Start spraying before the model and end your pass afterwards.  Spraying directly onto the model will cause the spray coat to pool and ruin the detail.  Each pass should be slow enough to evenly apply the undercoat, but fast enough to prevent pooling.

Several light coats are better than one heavy coat - You will best preserve the detail of your model by applying a number of light undercoats from different angles, rather than saturating it in a single go.

Give it time to dry - Allow at least 4-6 hours for your undercoat to dry completely, but a full 24 hours is even better.  I know you want to get right down to painting, but if the undercoat doesn't get time to dry, your base coat can come out smudgy or you will not get the proper resistance to chipping and wear.  Remember that you are going to be handling these models frequently.

                As you can see, a spray primer can be a big pain to use.  The weather conditions have to be just right , the application has to be just right, and it takes a long time to get the undercoat done evenly.  Is it worth the one benefit - exceptional wear resistance?

                The short answer is: No.  The long answer is: Hell No, not at all!  There is a product that was recommended to me a few years ago that really changed how I prepare models for painting.  This miracle product is called Vallejo Acrylic Polyurethane Surface Primer.  It is available in the standard 17ml dropper bottle or a larger 60 ml bottle.  There are so many advantages to this product:

• It cleans up with water like any other acrylic paint.
• It is "self-levelling" which means it does not pool in recesses.
• It leaves an extremely thin coating to preserve all the fine detail of the model.
• It dries very quickly - Within 20-30 minutes instead of 4-6 hours per coat.
• It is incredibly durable and when properly applied, will make your model very wear-resistant.
• It can be brushed on or applied with an airbrush.
• It comes in 16 different colors, including black, white, and grey.

                This is the product I use on nearly all my work except for larger models like tanks.  I have a large bottle each of black, white and grey, and it only takes a few drops to prime a standard human-sized miniature.  I wouldn't use anything else and I guarantee you will be pleased with the results.  No other brush-on primer has come close, so don't waste your time and money on Citadel's "Imperial Primer" or similar brush-on primers from other lines.

Pro-Tip: Primer Highlights and Drybrush UnderCoat Highlights

                As I mentioned at the beginning of the article, there is a way to use a black undercoat to help accentuate the highlights on a model or to simulate lighting.  After the black undercoat is applied and dry, you can use a white spray primer from whatever direction the light would be striking the figure (usually above).  This spray coat should be light and does not need to cover the area completely.  Note that this is a technique you probably will not want to use until you get some experience with the more traditional painting techniques (Even I don't honestly use it, but it can produce amazing results).

                A similar technique that's easy for beginners is a drybrush undercoat highlight.  After your sprayed or brushed-on black undercoat has dried, gently drybrush the entire figure with your white basecoat or layer paint (do not use the primer for this).  Watch as all the detail pops out!  It will help you identify specific areas to basecoat in given colors, and it will naturally help to shade and highlight those colors as they are applied (assuming that you apply your paint properly, in thin layers).  Give it a try, you'll be amazed at the results.

INTERLUDE - PREPARING AND ASSEMBLING YOUR MODEL

                Painting a model is a process that involves several coats of product, each with a specific purpose and finish.  You will be applying an undercoat, basecoat colors, layers, shading and/or washes, highlighting and/or glazes, and a topcoat to seal and protect the model.  The "Choosing (and Using) the Right Paints" series of articles will cover each of those steps, but first we need to take a break to cover the most important preliminary step - preparing your model for painting.

Getting It Ready

                Even if the miniature you are painting is all in one piece, there are still some steps you will want to take to prepare it.  Aside from assembly, these steps apply to all types of miniatures, regardless of the material in which they are cast.

What's it made of?

There are four primary materials from which nearly all gaming miniatures are cast or molded:

White Metal -  Once the most common material for casting miniatures do to its durability, ease of casting and ability to make molds that retained fine detail.  It is becoming less common as technological advances in other materials allow manufacturers to make products that are lighter and less expensive.  Older miniatures (those cast prior to the 1990s) may contain some lead, and caution should be used when preparing these so as not to inhale or ingest the dust and to wash hands after handling - but for the last 25 years, the white metal is a lead-free alloy, so anything on store shelves and racks is safe to handle and use.

Advantages - Durable, model has a solid "heft" to it that may add to its stability on the tabletop.  Good detail.

Disadvantages - Material tends to be more expensive, harder to remove mold lines and flash.  Harder to do conversions that require cutting or removal of material.  Must be assembled with Super Glue (cyanoacrylate adhesive).

Styrene Plastic - This is fast becoming one of the most widely used materials for the production of gaming miniatures, and it is the favorite of many gamers (including myself).  These injection-molded models have always provided the greatest poseability, and advances in moldmaking over the last 25 years have allowed manufacturers to produce models with even greater detail.

Advantages - Poseability, easy to convert.  Assembles with styrene cement (xylene).  Easy to remove mold lines and fill gaps.

Disadvantages - Can be expensive (manufacturers pass moldmaking costs along to the consumer), more fragile than metal. Lightweight and less stable (I find that gluing a nickel inside the bottom of a 25mm base gives it stability and the right "heft").  Parts must be clipped carefully from the sprue (the plastic frame on which they are molded).

Resin - This is still the most specialized of materials for miniature casting.  It is typically a urethane, acrylic, or other polymer.  Resin figures are often found when small production runs of a given model are called for.  Citadel's "Finecast" series of miniatures are cast in resin.  A word of caution: Resin dust is harmful if inhaled.  When preparing a resin model, be sure to wear a filter mask and use adequate ventilation.

Advantages - Resin models can produce the highest level of detail.  Conversion is not as difficult as metal or restic models, and parts can be reposed or repositioned by application of heat.

Disadvantages - Resin dust is harmful.  Resin parts are extremely fragile and thus not always ideal for tabletop gaming and handling.  Must be assembled with Super Glue.

Restic -  This is the newest of materials for miniature gaming.  It offers the highest durability of any material while keeping a lighter weight than metal.  Like resin models, it can be repositioned with use of heat (hot water or a hair dryer).  It is easier to convert than metal, but not so much as styrene or resin.  It is often said that restic offers all of the advantages of plastic and metal... but also all of the drawbacks.  Notwithstanding the difficulty of working with this material, it has allowed companies like Privateer Press and Mantic to manufacture models inexpensively, reducing the cost of entry into the hobby for new players and taking a chunk out of Games Workshop's tremendous market share.

Advantages - Extremely durable. The least expensive material. Moderate heft. Reposable with heat.

Disadvantages - Almost as hard to convert as metal.  The most difficult substance for removing mold lines, as scraping tends to fray the material.  Must be assembled with Super Glue.

                As we can see, each of the materials offers certain strengths and comes with certain challenges for the hobbyist.  That said, my favorite material is styrene for its poseability, ease of conversion, fast cleanup and least messy assembly.  Plastic cement melts the material, fusing it with the adjacent part to create a solid, permanent bond.  If the parts are properly prepared and cleaned, the cement creates a "weld line" of melted plastic that can be scraped and sanded away when dry.  When done with care (and supplemented when necessary with plastic putty or Liquid Green Stuff), this can create a join that is totally invisible when painted, giving the best and most realistic results.

                Now that you understand what material your model is made from, you have a better idea on how you will need to prepare it.  Let's go through each of the steps.

Step One: Wash It!

                Regardless of what material your model is made from, it was cast or injected into a mold.  These molds are coated with release agents to keep the material from sticking to the mold.  As you can no doubt imagine, these same chemicals would keep paint from sticking to the model.  It's not a big deal, but if you want the best results, wash your models in a bath of warm water with a little dish soap, rinse them and allow them to dry completely.  I recommend using a plastic basin or dish pan to contain the models or sprues, to keep you from losing parts down the drain!

Step Two: Remove from the sprue or mold tab

                As mentioned above, plastic parts are molded onto a frame called a "sprue".  It is best to remove these carefully using clippers.  Do not twist the parts off the sprue, as this will leave you with parts that are missing large chunks which will be visible when painted and are quite difficult to fix.  A hobby knife is an adequate solution, but should be used with care to avoid injury or damage to the parts. 

                In the previous article, “Tools of the Trade”, you will find an in-depth explanation on the different types of recommended clippers, as well as where to obtain them.  It’s important to note that an inexpensive pair of sprue clippers is still better than none at all.

                Some metal or resin parts may have "tabs" remaining from the vents in the mold, which are cuts that allow air to escape.  Molds are slightly overfilled to prevent bubbles from deforming parts, so you may have extra material that needs to be removed.  Large chunks can be trimmed carefully with clippers, smaller vents can be removed with a hobby knife or files.

Step Three: Remove flash and mold lines

                Resin or metal parts may have some "flash", which is thin excess material that escapes between halves of the mold.  This can be easily scraped away with a sharp hobby knife.  All materials have mold lines, regardless of whether the part was cast or injection molded.  Even thought these lines can be hard to see on the bare model. it is essential to remove this excess material.  Application of paint and highlights will draw these mold lines out in glaring detail, ruining an otherwise excellent paint job.  This is probably the most unpleasant step of cleanup and assembly, but it is completely essential if you desire the best results. 

                Scrape gently with the edge of a sharp hobby knife, angled along the edge rather than straight up and down.  Alternatively, you could try Citadel's Mouldline Remover (see previous article for more details).  This is the step where a lighted magnifier comes in very handy.  You may be surprised to examine a model or part that you have cleaned, only to find that you've missed a mold line somewhere!  You can be sure that it will show up when you paint, so take the time to remove it now.

Step Four: Assembly

                Now that your parts are clean of any mold release chemicals and free of flash and mold lines, they are ready for assembly.  Take your time when doing this and apply adhesives carefully so that they do not flow onto other parts (or your fingers, which can make quite the mess!).  Do one step at a time.  I find it easiest to adhere the legs to the base first, then apply the torso after the previous assembly has dried, followed by the arms and finally the head.  Take the opportunity to determine what pose you'd like the model to be in.  Use poster putty (also called "blu-tac") for temporary assembly if you want an idea of what the finished model will look like.

                If your model is styrene, you can use plastic cement for assembly.  I recommend the Testors Model Master Liquid Cement because it has a needle-like precision applicator so that you can apply the glue directly and exactly where you want it.  NOTE: Do not use the "Non-toxic" cement (the stuff that smells a little like lemons) as you will find it does not create the permanent weld and parts will break off easily.  I also do not recommend the gel-type cements as they inevitably smear and ooze goo out between the parts.

 

                If your model is metal, resin, or restic, you will need cyanoacrylate adhesive (Super Glue) to assemble it.  Most of the commercially available glues on the shelves in grocery and hardware stores are messy or dry out quickly.  I avoid foil tubes because it's difficult to precisely control the application.  Ideally, you want a bottle with a precision applicator, preferably one that can be removed and replaced if it gets clogged.  Always keep your super-glue bottle upright to avoid clogging the applicator.  I found the right stuff in a hobby store, by asking about their specialized adhesives.  It's only a little more expensive than the junk on grocery store shelves, but it lasts a lot longer and can be applied more carefully.  I don't recommend the "Gel" glues except for certain gap-filling applications, or for joining large parts that need a very strong bond.

                I am not going to go into detail on how to safely use Super Glue, but I will advise that users be familiar with safe handling, as well as measures to take if you spill it or get any on your skin.  The resources exist on the Internet, and when handled safely, this product can enable strong bonds between parts, even if they are of differing materials.

Step Five: Allow Time To Dry!

                It's always tempting to rush ahead and move on to painting your newly-assembled model.  Resist that temptation and give it time to dry.  Allow several hours until the adhesive and joins have visibly hardened.  The first time you ruin a $20 brush by getting super glue on it, you'll wish you'd waited a little longer.

Step Five:  Fill The Gaps And Clean The Seams

                Now that the model is dry, you can see where gaps need to be filled and seams need to be scraped, filed, or sanded down.  Removing weld lines from plastic parts is much like removing mold lines.  If you have narrow gaps between parts, they can usually be taken care of with a "fillet" of super glue.  Allow it to flow into the gap and give it time to dry. 

                For larger gaps, or minor surface imperfections, you may need putty.  For plastic parts, I recommend AV Plastic Putty which is a water-soluble putty that scrapes or files easily when dry, or Citadel's "Liquid Green Stuff" which also cleans up with water, but is a "hotter" putty.  As far as I can tell, it's no different from Squadron Green Putty which you'd find in model stores.  You can use sculpting tools to apply these putties, and smooth them out with a moistened old brush.  Allow 24 hours to dry before filing or sanding.

                The largest gaps will require a two part epoxy putty (the "proper" Green Stuff) which is mixed together in equal parts, kneaded to a uniform color, and applied like modeling clay.  Use sculpting tools or an old knife to apply and smooth.  When cured (allow several hours) it is a very hard material that can be sanded and filed to shape.

SUMMARY

                So now, your new miniature is finally cleaned and assembled.  The gaps are filled and the mold lines are removed.  This is the pristine new canvas upon which you will paint your next masterpiece!  Tomorrow, we will talk about getting the model undercoated with primer and ready to paint.

INTERLUDE - TOOLS OF THE TRADE

                We have talked about preparing yourself physically for a painting session, and about what kinds of brushes to use for painting miniatures.  While brushes are the most important tool you will buy, there are several other items which are helpful (or downright necessary) for the best results.  Most of these will be used during the assembly and cleanup stage, which we will elaborate upon in the next article.

Hobby Knife (an absolute must)

                If you could afford only one tool, this would be the most important.  A basic X-Acto style knife handle with removable blades is going to be your most-used tool for cleaning and assembling miniatures.  Don't waste your money on the retractable type with the snap-off blades, they are not really any safer and they lack the ability to use custom blades (some of which we will discuss below).  You'll also want a pack of #11blades - these are the triangular ones with the straight edge.

If you can find them, I prefer the dispenser pack.  It's easier to get a new blade when needed, and the slot on the left side allows for safe disposal of old blades.

                What kind of knife handle you use depends on your preference.  Some people prefer a lighter, narrow handle and others prefer a heftier, thicker one.  Some people like a rubberized comfort grip.  Just make sure it's something you can comfortably hold and safely control.

                Safety Note:  It's important to make sure you are always working with a sharp blade!  A dull blade can be dangerous, as you will have to use more force to accomplish the work, and thus have less control over it.  And a dull blade will hurt you just as badly if it slips.

(I got two stitches in my index finger several years ago that can prove that).

Needle Files (another must)

                Aside from your hobby knife, these are the tools you'll most commonly use.  When cleaning a miniature, they are ideal for getting into tight areas that your knife cannot reach.  Commonly sold in sets (with or without a handle), there are a variety of shapes you'll find useful.  My most widely used files are the flat file, the triangular file, the round file, and the half-round file.  Each has a different shape along its filing surface.  Experience will show you which files you will need most.

                If you can find the really fine files known as jeweler's files or watchmakers files, pick those up instead of the standard hobby files.  Not only can they get into really tight areas, it is reported that they help with cleanup of restic models without the fraying you may encounter with coarser files and knife blades.

                You may want to also have on hand a semi-flexible emery board for small sanding jobs.  These are not the cheap cardboard drugstore brands, but more like the manicurist's file.  It's thicker and has a bit of give to it, which will make your sanding jobs easier and more precise.  One side is coarse while the other is finer.

 

Sprue Clippers

                In the absence of this tool, a hobby knife can be used to remove plastic parts from a sprue - but it is neither as safe nor as precise as a good pair of clippers.  The best products to use for this purpose are clippers that are specially designed for this purpose. 

                The Citadel Fine Detail Cutters are allegedly best, as they use a side-shearing action and are designed for access to tricky areas.  I have yet to use this model, it's merely a matter of laying out the funds to try a pair.

               

The P3 Clippers or even the Testors Sprue Cutters will do the job just fine if you cannot afford the $30 tool.

 

 

 

 

Mold Line Remover

               
Most hobbyists use the edge of a hobby knife blade to scrape away mold lines from a miniature.  Citadel makes a Mouldline Remover tool which is supposed to work just as well for removing mold lines as scraping with a knife - without the risk of damaging the part or inuring yourself.  I have not personally used this tool, but I intend to buy one and try it out when I find it in a local store.  If you can find the older package that also contains a fine wire brush, this is even better - especially when working with restic models, which tend to fray when scraped.

Pin Vise

                A pin vise is a small, hand-held implement for holding drill bits.  It will most commonly be used when drilling holes for pinning parts together (which we will discuss in a future article) or when reaming out gun barrels, exhausts, and the like.  Take my word for it - this is the one tool where comfort matters the most!  Trying to drill a deep hole with a standard XActo pin vise will be uncomfortable and time consuming, and you'll find you have less control over the angle.  If you plan to be doing the kind of work a pin vise requires, spend a little extra and get one with a comfortable grip - and preferably, a rotating pommel to help you hold it.  

                The Citadel Drill comes with three sizes of bit - 1.0mm, 1.5mm, and 2.0mm.  These will generally be sufficient for most uses, but if you find you need a much larger (or smaller) bit, make sure the chuck on your pin vise can accommodate it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Razor Saw

 

                This is a tool you won't usually use unless you are doing conversion work on a miniature.  Some hobbyists prefer to use a full-size saw such as a hobby hacksaw or jeweler's saw.  These are smaller than the saws used by tradesmen, but for most applications, you may find them too large.  Still, if you're doing work on a bigger model, you may find them far more helpful that a saw blade in your knife handle.  A hacksaw-style blade will help make quick work of large, solid cuts, while a jeweler's saw allows you to make cuts in impossibly tight areas.  XActo makes both styles of saw if you find you have a use for them.  I would advise the "extra fine" blades so as not to remove too much material when cutting.

 

For most applications, you'll do just fine with a #15 keyhole saw blade for your hobby knife handle, or something similar.

 

Sculpting Tools

                These look like some kind of dental instruments (and that may very well be where this specialized tool set originated).  For our purposes, they are used in applying and shaping putty, whether in the liquid or malleable form.  They can be helpful in gap filling and conversion work, and will be invaluable if you start doing hair or fur or mail on models.

You don't have to buy the Citadel Sculpting Tool Set, but this image will show you the kind of implements you are looking for.

Sanding Film

                This is a series of Mylar-backed sandpaper which can be used wet or dry.  It can be rinsed and reused, and a variety pack comes with several color coded grits ranging from 150 to 600.  Coarser and finer films are available if desired, but this should be all you will need.  Sanding film is most useful when working with resin pieces or when building larger vehicle models.

 Cutting Mat (optional)

                When working with a knife or saw, It is advisable to protect your desk, workbench or table with some kind of cutting mat.  There are many different types, sold at art stores, hobby shops and the like.  They are "self healing", meaning the surface repairs itself from cuts rather than leaving gashes that mar the work surface.  If you have the money to spare and it interests you, get one.  Personally, I just use some thin, non-corrugated cardboard from anything at hand - an empty cereal box or some other packaging - and throw it out when it's no longer serviceable.

Scribe (optional)

                This is a specialized tool used for punching holes through thin plastic card or scribing panel lines into a model's surface.  It looks like a hobby knife handle with a thick needle at the end.  I have one I've used for years whenever a job calls for it, and I've kept it sharp with a few occasional passes across the emery board.  You won't need one immediately, but pick one up if you find your tasks would benefit from it.
 
An Old Toothbrush          When you replace your toothbrush next time, take the old one, rinse it clean and put it in with your modeling tools.  It will essentially cost you nothing, and having an old toothbrush on hand can make cleaning and preparing models a lot easier.  I use it to remove the frayed bits when cleaning a restic model, to help remove sanding dust when filing or sanding a part, and a variety of other uses.

Question: Should I get a rotary tool like a Dremel?

In my opinion, this should not be an item that a beginning modeler even considers.  Yes, it can make it easier to clean, prepare, and convert miniatures.  You can cut, drill, sand, and polish quickly.  You can also ruin a miniature as quickly if you do not know what you are doing.  I'd strongly recommend holding off until you have more experience and know exactly how and when you'll need to use it.

There are times that a rotary tool would come in handy for me, but they haven't been frequently enough in 25 years for me to justify the expense.  If and when I buy one, I intend to get a cordless/rechargeable model - and variable speed will be a must.
 

SUMMARY

                So, now you have a general idea of which tools are necessary and which ones are used less frequently, but can still be helpful.  Where are you going to keep all these tools so that they remain handy and in good condition?  The answer is the simplest and least expensive tool you’ll buy – a plastic pencil box.  A buck or two is all you need to get a case large enough to hold all of your tools and protect them from moisture and damage.  I prefer a clear box, so I can see where everything is within.

                Tomorrow, we will be talking about what you’re going to do with all your shiny new toys when we tackle cleaning and assembling a miniature.