INTERLUDE - TOOLS OF THE TRADE

                We have talked about preparing yourself physically for a painting session, and about what kinds of brushes to use for painting miniatures.  While brushes are the most important tool you will buy, there are several other items which are helpful (or downright necessary) for the best results.  Most of these will be used during the assembly and cleanup stage, which we will elaborate upon in the next article.

Hobby Knife (an absolute must)

                If you could afford only one tool, this would be the most important.  A basic X-Acto style knife handle with removable blades is going to be your most-used tool for cleaning and assembling miniatures.  Don't waste your money on the retractable type with the snap-off blades, they are not really any safer and they lack the ability to use custom blades (some of which we will discuss below).  You'll also want a pack of #11blades - these are the triangular ones with the straight edge.

If you can find them, I prefer the dispenser pack.  It's easier to get a new blade when needed, and the slot on the left side allows for safe disposal of old blades.

                What kind of knife handle you use depends on your preference.  Some people prefer a lighter, narrow handle and others prefer a heftier, thicker one.  Some people like a rubberized comfort grip.  Just make sure it's something you can comfortably hold and safely control.

                Safety Note:  It's important to make sure you are always working with a sharp blade!  A dull blade can be dangerous, as you will have to use more force to accomplish the work, and thus have less control over it.  And a dull blade will hurt you just as badly if it slips.

(I got two stitches in my index finger several years ago that can prove that).

Needle Files (another must)

                Aside from your hobby knife, these are the tools you'll most commonly use.  When cleaning a miniature, they are ideal for getting into tight areas that your knife cannot reach.  Commonly sold in sets (with or without a handle), there are a variety of shapes you'll find useful.  My most widely used files are the flat file, the triangular file, the round file, and the half-round file.  Each has a different shape along its filing surface.  Experience will show you which files you will need most.

                If you can find the really fine files known as jeweler's files or watchmakers files, pick those up instead of the standard hobby files.  Not only can they get into really tight areas, it is reported that they help with cleanup of restic models without the fraying you may encounter with coarser files and knife blades.

                You may want to also have on hand a semi-flexible emery board for small sanding jobs.  These are not the cheap cardboard drugstore brands, but more like the manicurist's file.  It's thicker and has a bit of give to it, which will make your sanding jobs easier and more precise.  One side is coarse while the other is finer.

 

Sprue Clippers

                In the absence of this tool, a hobby knife can be used to remove plastic parts from a sprue - but it is neither as safe nor as precise as a good pair of clippers.  The best products to use for this purpose are clippers that are specially designed for this purpose. 

                The Citadel Fine Detail Cutters are allegedly best, as they use a side-shearing action and are designed for access to tricky areas.  I have yet to use this model, it's merely a matter of laying out the funds to try a pair.

               

The P3 Clippers or even the Testors Sprue Cutters will do the job just fine if you cannot afford the $30 tool.

 

 

 

 

Mold Line Remover

               
Most hobbyists use the edge of a hobby knife blade to scrape away mold lines from a miniature.  Citadel makes a Mouldline Remover tool which is supposed to work just as well for removing mold lines as scraping with a knife - without the risk of damaging the part or inuring yourself.  I have not personally used this tool, but I intend to buy one and try it out when I find it in a local store.  If you can find the older package that also contains a fine wire brush, this is even better - especially when working with restic models, which tend to fray when scraped.

Pin Vise

                A pin vise is a small, hand-held implement for holding drill bits.  It will most commonly be used when drilling holes for pinning parts together (which we will discuss in a future article) or when reaming out gun barrels, exhausts, and the like.  Take my word for it - this is the one tool where comfort matters the most!  Trying to drill a deep hole with a standard XActo pin vise will be uncomfortable and time consuming, and you'll find you have less control over the angle.  If you plan to be doing the kind of work a pin vise requires, spend a little extra and get one with a comfortable grip - and preferably, a rotating pommel to help you hold it.  

                The Citadel Drill comes with three sizes of bit - 1.0mm, 1.5mm, and 2.0mm.  These will generally be sufficient for most uses, but if you find you need a much larger (or smaller) bit, make sure the chuck on your pin vise can accommodate it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Razor Saw

 

                This is a tool you won't usually use unless you are doing conversion work on a miniature.  Some hobbyists prefer to use a full-size saw such as a hobby hacksaw or jeweler's saw.  These are smaller than the saws used by tradesmen, but for most applications, you may find them too large.  Still, if you're doing work on a bigger model, you may find them far more helpful that a saw blade in your knife handle.  A hacksaw-style blade will help make quick work of large, solid cuts, while a jeweler's saw allows you to make cuts in impossibly tight areas.  XActo makes both styles of saw if you find you have a use for them.  I would advise the "extra fine" blades so as not to remove too much material when cutting.

 

For most applications, you'll do just fine with a #15 keyhole saw blade for your hobby knife handle, or something similar.

 

Sculpting Tools

                These look like some kind of dental instruments (and that may very well be where this specialized tool set originated).  For our purposes, they are used in applying and shaping putty, whether in the liquid or malleable form.  They can be helpful in gap filling and conversion work, and will be invaluable if you start doing hair or fur or mail on models.

You don't have to buy the Citadel Sculpting Tool Set, but this image will show you the kind of implements you are looking for.

Sanding Film

                This is a series of Mylar-backed sandpaper which can be used wet or dry.  It can be rinsed and reused, and a variety pack comes with several color coded grits ranging from 150 to 600.  Coarser and finer films are available if desired, but this should be all you will need.  Sanding film is most useful when working with resin pieces or when building larger vehicle models.

 Cutting Mat (optional)

                When working with a knife or saw, It is advisable to protect your desk, workbench or table with some kind of cutting mat.  There are many different types, sold at art stores, hobby shops and the like.  They are "self healing", meaning the surface repairs itself from cuts rather than leaving gashes that mar the work surface.  If you have the money to spare and it interests you, get one.  Personally, I just use some thin, non-corrugated cardboard from anything at hand - an empty cereal box or some other packaging - and throw it out when it's no longer serviceable.

Scribe (optional)

                This is a specialized tool used for punching holes through thin plastic card or scribing panel lines into a model's surface.  It looks like a hobby knife handle with a thick needle at the end.  I have one I've used for years whenever a job calls for it, and I've kept it sharp with a few occasional passes across the emery board.  You won't need one immediately, but pick one up if you find your tasks would benefit from it.
 
An Old Toothbrush          When you replace your toothbrush next time, take the old one, rinse it clean and put it in with your modeling tools.  It will essentially cost you nothing, and having an old toothbrush on hand can make cleaning and preparing models a lot easier.  I use it to remove the frayed bits when cleaning a restic model, to help remove sanding dust when filing or sanding a part, and a variety of other uses.

Question: Should I get a rotary tool like a Dremel?

In my opinion, this should not be an item that a beginning modeler even considers.  Yes, it can make it easier to clean, prepare, and convert miniatures.  You can cut, drill, sand, and polish quickly.  You can also ruin a miniature as quickly if you do not know what you are doing.  I'd strongly recommend holding off until you have more experience and know exactly how and when you'll need to use it.

There are times that a rotary tool would come in handy for me, but they haven't been frequently enough in 25 years for me to justify the expense.  If and when I buy one, I intend to get a cordless/rechargeable model - and variable speed will be a must.
 

SUMMARY

                So, now you have a general idea of which tools are necessary and which ones are used less frequently, but can still be helpful.  Where are you going to keep all these tools so that they remain handy and in good condition?  The answer is the simplest and least expensive tool you’ll buy – a plastic pencil box.  A buck or two is all you need to get a case large enough to hold all of your tools and protect them from moisture and damage.  I prefer a clear box, so I can see where everything is within.

                Tomorrow, we will be talking about what you’re going to do with all your shiny new toys when we tackle cleaning and assembling a miniature.