INTERLUDE - PREPARING AND ASSEMBLING YOUR MODEL

                Painting a model is a process that involves several coats of product, each with a specific purpose and finish.  You will be applying an undercoat, basecoat colors, layers, shading and/or washes, highlighting and/or glazes, and a topcoat to seal and protect the model.  The "Choosing (and Using) the Right Paints" series of articles will cover each of those steps, but first we need to take a break to cover the most important preliminary step - preparing your model for painting.

Getting It Ready

                Even if the miniature you are painting is all in one piece, there are still some steps you will want to take to prepare it.  Aside from assembly, these steps apply to all types of miniatures, regardless of the material in which they are cast.

What's it made of?

There are four primary materials from which nearly all gaming miniatures are cast or molded:

White Metal -  Once the most common material for casting miniatures do to its durability, ease of casting and ability to make molds that retained fine detail.  It is becoming less common as technological advances in other materials allow manufacturers to make products that are lighter and less expensive.  Older miniatures (those cast prior to the 1990s) may contain some lead, and caution should be used when preparing these so as not to inhale or ingest the dust and to wash hands after handling - but for the last 25 years, the white metal is a lead-free alloy, so anything on store shelves and racks is safe to handle and use.

Advantages - Durable, model has a solid "heft" to it that may add to its stability on the tabletop.  Good detail.

Disadvantages - Material tends to be more expensive, harder to remove mold lines and flash.  Harder to do conversions that require cutting or removal of material.  Must be assembled with Super Glue (cyanoacrylate adhesive).

Styrene Plastic - This is fast becoming one of the most widely used materials for the production of gaming miniatures, and it is the favorite of many gamers (including myself).  These injection-molded models have always provided the greatest poseability, and advances in moldmaking over the last 25 years have allowed manufacturers to produce models with even greater detail.

Advantages - Poseability, easy to convert.  Assembles with styrene cement (xylene).  Easy to remove mold lines and fill gaps.

Disadvantages - Can be expensive (manufacturers pass moldmaking costs along to the consumer), more fragile than metal. Lightweight and less stable (I find that gluing a nickel inside the bottom of a 25mm base gives it stability and the right "heft").  Parts must be clipped carefully from the sprue (the plastic frame on which they are molded).

Resin - This is still the most specialized of materials for miniature casting.  It is typically a urethane, acrylic, or other polymer.  Resin figures are often found when small production runs of a given model are called for.  Citadel's "Finecast" series of miniatures are cast in resin.  A word of caution: Resin dust is harmful if inhaled.  When preparing a resin model, be sure to wear a filter mask and use adequate ventilation.

Advantages - Resin models can produce the highest level of detail.  Conversion is not as difficult as metal or restic models, and parts can be reposed or repositioned by application of heat.

Disadvantages - Resin dust is harmful.  Resin parts are extremely fragile and thus not always ideal for tabletop gaming and handling.  Must be assembled with Super Glue.

Restic -  This is the newest of materials for miniature gaming.  It offers the highest durability of any material while keeping a lighter weight than metal.  Like resin models, it can be repositioned with use of heat (hot water or a hair dryer).  It is easier to convert than metal, but not so much as styrene or resin.  It is often said that restic offers all of the advantages of plastic and metal... but also all of the drawbacks.  Notwithstanding the difficulty of working with this material, it has allowed companies like Privateer Press and Mantic to manufacture models inexpensively, reducing the cost of entry into the hobby for new players and taking a chunk out of Games Workshop's tremendous market share.

Advantages - Extremely durable. The least expensive material. Moderate heft. Reposable with heat.

Disadvantages - Almost as hard to convert as metal.  The most difficult substance for removing mold lines, as scraping tends to fray the material.  Must be assembled with Super Glue.

                As we can see, each of the materials offers certain strengths and comes with certain challenges for the hobbyist.  That said, my favorite material is styrene for its poseability, ease of conversion, fast cleanup and least messy assembly.  Plastic cement melts the material, fusing it with the adjacent part to create a solid, permanent bond.  If the parts are properly prepared and cleaned, the cement creates a "weld line" of melted plastic that can be scraped and sanded away when dry.  When done with care (and supplemented when necessary with plastic putty or Liquid Green Stuff), this can create a join that is totally invisible when painted, giving the best and most realistic results.

                Now that you understand what material your model is made from, you have a better idea on how you will need to prepare it.  Let's go through each of the steps.

Step One: Wash It!

                Regardless of what material your model is made from, it was cast or injected into a mold.  These molds are coated with release agents to keep the material from sticking to the mold.  As you can no doubt imagine, these same chemicals would keep paint from sticking to the model.  It's not a big deal, but if you want the best results, wash your models in a bath of warm water with a little dish soap, rinse them and allow them to dry completely.  I recommend using a plastic basin or dish pan to contain the models or sprues, to keep you from losing parts down the drain!

Step Two: Remove from the sprue or mold tab

                As mentioned above, plastic parts are molded onto a frame called a "sprue".  It is best to remove these carefully using clippers.  Do not twist the parts off the sprue, as this will leave you with parts that are missing large chunks which will be visible when painted and are quite difficult to fix.  A hobby knife is an adequate solution, but should be used with care to avoid injury or damage to the parts. 

                In the previous article, “Tools of the Trade”, you will find an in-depth explanation on the different types of recommended clippers, as well as where to obtain them.  It’s important to note that an inexpensive pair of sprue clippers is still better than none at all.

                Some metal or resin parts may have "tabs" remaining from the vents in the mold, which are cuts that allow air to escape.  Molds are slightly overfilled to prevent bubbles from deforming parts, so you may have extra material that needs to be removed.  Large chunks can be trimmed carefully with clippers, smaller vents can be removed with a hobby knife or files.

Step Three: Remove flash and mold lines

                Resin or metal parts may have some "flash", which is thin excess material that escapes between halves of the mold.  This can be easily scraped away with a sharp hobby knife.  All materials have mold lines, regardless of whether the part was cast or injection molded.  Even thought these lines can be hard to see on the bare model. it is essential to remove this excess material.  Application of paint and highlights will draw these mold lines out in glaring detail, ruining an otherwise excellent paint job.  This is probably the most unpleasant step of cleanup and assembly, but it is completely essential if you desire the best results. 

                Scrape gently with the edge of a sharp hobby knife, angled along the edge rather than straight up and down.  Alternatively, you could try Citadel's Mouldline Remover (see previous article for more details).  This is the step where a lighted magnifier comes in very handy.  You may be surprised to examine a model or part that you have cleaned, only to find that you've missed a mold line somewhere!  You can be sure that it will show up when you paint, so take the time to remove it now.

Step Four: Assembly

                Now that your parts are clean of any mold release chemicals and free of flash and mold lines, they are ready for assembly.  Take your time when doing this and apply adhesives carefully so that they do not flow onto other parts (or your fingers, which can make quite the mess!).  Do one step at a time.  I find it easiest to adhere the legs to the base first, then apply the torso after the previous assembly has dried, followed by the arms and finally the head.  Take the opportunity to determine what pose you'd like the model to be in.  Use poster putty (also called "blu-tac") for temporary assembly if you want an idea of what the finished model will look like.

                If your model is styrene, you can use plastic cement for assembly.  I recommend the Testors Model Master Liquid Cement because it has a needle-like precision applicator so that you can apply the glue directly and exactly where you want it.  NOTE: Do not use the "Non-toxic" cement (the stuff that smells a little like lemons) as you will find it does not create the permanent weld and parts will break off easily.  I also do not recommend the gel-type cements as they inevitably smear and ooze goo out between the parts.

 

                If your model is metal, resin, or restic, you will need cyanoacrylate adhesive (Super Glue) to assemble it.  Most of the commercially available glues on the shelves in grocery and hardware stores are messy or dry out quickly.  I avoid foil tubes because it's difficult to precisely control the application.  Ideally, you want a bottle with a precision applicator, preferably one that can be removed and replaced if it gets clogged.  Always keep your super-glue bottle upright to avoid clogging the applicator.  I found the right stuff in a hobby store, by asking about their specialized adhesives.  It's only a little more expensive than the junk on grocery store shelves, but it lasts a lot longer and can be applied more carefully.  I don't recommend the "Gel" glues except for certain gap-filling applications, or for joining large parts that need a very strong bond.

                I am not going to go into detail on how to safely use Super Glue, but I will advise that users be familiar with safe handling, as well as measures to take if you spill it or get any on your skin.  The resources exist on the Internet, and when handled safely, this product can enable strong bonds between parts, even if they are of differing materials.

Step Five: Allow Time To Dry!

                It's always tempting to rush ahead and move on to painting your newly-assembled model.  Resist that temptation and give it time to dry.  Allow several hours until the adhesive and joins have visibly hardened.  The first time you ruin a $20 brush by getting super glue on it, you'll wish you'd waited a little longer.

Step Five:  Fill The Gaps And Clean The Seams

                Now that the model is dry, you can see where gaps need to be filled and seams need to be scraped, filed, or sanded down.  Removing weld lines from plastic parts is much like removing mold lines.  If you have narrow gaps between parts, they can usually be taken care of with a "fillet" of super glue.  Allow it to flow into the gap and give it time to dry. 

                For larger gaps, or minor surface imperfections, you may need putty.  For plastic parts, I recommend AV Plastic Putty which is a water-soluble putty that scrapes or files easily when dry, or Citadel's "Liquid Green Stuff" which also cleans up with water, but is a "hotter" putty.  As far as I can tell, it's no different from Squadron Green Putty which you'd find in model stores.  You can use sculpting tools to apply these putties, and smooth them out with a moistened old brush.  Allow 24 hours to dry before filing or sanding.

                The largest gaps will require a two part epoxy putty (the "proper" Green Stuff) which is mixed together in equal parts, kneaded to a uniform color, and applied like modeling clay.  Use sculpting tools or an old knife to apply and smooth.  When cured (allow several hours) it is a very hard material that can be sanded and filed to shape.

SUMMARY

                So now, your new miniature is finally cleaned and assembled.  The gaps are filled and the mold lines are removed.  This is the pristine new canvas upon which you will paint your next masterpiece!  Tomorrow, we will talk about getting the model undercoated with primer and ready to paint.

INTERLUDE - TOOLS OF THE TRADE

                We have talked about preparing yourself physically for a painting session, and about what kinds of brushes to use for painting miniatures.  While brushes are the most important tool you will buy, there are several other items which are helpful (or downright necessary) for the best results.  Most of these will be used during the assembly and cleanup stage, which we will elaborate upon in the next article.

Hobby Knife (an absolute must)

                If you could afford only one tool, this would be the most important.  A basic X-Acto style knife handle with removable blades is going to be your most-used tool for cleaning and assembling miniatures.  Don't waste your money on the retractable type with the snap-off blades, they are not really any safer and they lack the ability to use custom blades (some of which we will discuss below).  You'll also want a pack of #11blades - these are the triangular ones with the straight edge.

If you can find them, I prefer the dispenser pack.  It's easier to get a new blade when needed, and the slot on the left side allows for safe disposal of old blades.

                What kind of knife handle you use depends on your preference.  Some people prefer a lighter, narrow handle and others prefer a heftier, thicker one.  Some people like a rubberized comfort grip.  Just make sure it's something you can comfortably hold and safely control.

                Safety Note:  It's important to make sure you are always working with a sharp blade!  A dull blade can be dangerous, as you will have to use more force to accomplish the work, and thus have less control over it.  And a dull blade will hurt you just as badly if it slips.

(I got two stitches in my index finger several years ago that can prove that).

Needle Files (another must)

                Aside from your hobby knife, these are the tools you'll most commonly use.  When cleaning a miniature, they are ideal for getting into tight areas that your knife cannot reach.  Commonly sold in sets (with or without a handle), there are a variety of shapes you'll find useful.  My most widely used files are the flat file, the triangular file, the round file, and the half-round file.  Each has a different shape along its filing surface.  Experience will show you which files you will need most.

                If you can find the really fine files known as jeweler's files or watchmakers files, pick those up instead of the standard hobby files.  Not only can they get into really tight areas, it is reported that they help with cleanup of restic models without the fraying you may encounter with coarser files and knife blades.

                You may want to also have on hand a semi-flexible emery board for small sanding jobs.  These are not the cheap cardboard drugstore brands, but more like the manicurist's file.  It's thicker and has a bit of give to it, which will make your sanding jobs easier and more precise.  One side is coarse while the other is finer.

 

Sprue Clippers

                In the absence of this tool, a hobby knife can be used to remove plastic parts from a sprue - but it is neither as safe nor as precise as a good pair of clippers.  The best products to use for this purpose are clippers that are specially designed for this purpose. 

                The Citadel Fine Detail Cutters are allegedly best, as they use a side-shearing action and are designed for access to tricky areas.  I have yet to use this model, it's merely a matter of laying out the funds to try a pair.

               

The P3 Clippers or even the Testors Sprue Cutters will do the job just fine if you cannot afford the $30 tool.

 

 

 

 

Mold Line Remover

               
Most hobbyists use the edge of a hobby knife blade to scrape away mold lines from a miniature.  Citadel makes a Mouldline Remover tool which is supposed to work just as well for removing mold lines as scraping with a knife - without the risk of damaging the part or inuring yourself.  I have not personally used this tool, but I intend to buy one and try it out when I find it in a local store.  If you can find the older package that also contains a fine wire brush, this is even better - especially when working with restic models, which tend to fray when scraped.

Pin Vise

                A pin vise is a small, hand-held implement for holding drill bits.  It will most commonly be used when drilling holes for pinning parts together (which we will discuss in a future article) or when reaming out gun barrels, exhausts, and the like.  Take my word for it - this is the one tool where comfort matters the most!  Trying to drill a deep hole with a standard XActo pin vise will be uncomfortable and time consuming, and you'll find you have less control over the angle.  If you plan to be doing the kind of work a pin vise requires, spend a little extra and get one with a comfortable grip - and preferably, a rotating pommel to help you hold it.  

                The Citadel Drill comes with three sizes of bit - 1.0mm, 1.5mm, and 2.0mm.  These will generally be sufficient for most uses, but if you find you need a much larger (or smaller) bit, make sure the chuck on your pin vise can accommodate it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Razor Saw

 

                This is a tool you won't usually use unless you are doing conversion work on a miniature.  Some hobbyists prefer to use a full-size saw such as a hobby hacksaw or jeweler's saw.  These are smaller than the saws used by tradesmen, but for most applications, you may find them too large.  Still, if you're doing work on a bigger model, you may find them far more helpful that a saw blade in your knife handle.  A hacksaw-style blade will help make quick work of large, solid cuts, while a jeweler's saw allows you to make cuts in impossibly tight areas.  XActo makes both styles of saw if you find you have a use for them.  I would advise the "extra fine" blades so as not to remove too much material when cutting.

 

For most applications, you'll do just fine with a #15 keyhole saw blade for your hobby knife handle, or something similar.

 

Sculpting Tools

                These look like some kind of dental instruments (and that may very well be where this specialized tool set originated).  For our purposes, they are used in applying and shaping putty, whether in the liquid or malleable form.  They can be helpful in gap filling and conversion work, and will be invaluable if you start doing hair or fur or mail on models.

You don't have to buy the Citadel Sculpting Tool Set, but this image will show you the kind of implements you are looking for.

Sanding Film

                This is a series of Mylar-backed sandpaper which can be used wet or dry.  It can be rinsed and reused, and a variety pack comes with several color coded grits ranging from 150 to 600.  Coarser and finer films are available if desired, but this should be all you will need.  Sanding film is most useful when working with resin pieces or when building larger vehicle models.

 Cutting Mat (optional)

                When working with a knife or saw, It is advisable to protect your desk, workbench or table with some kind of cutting mat.  There are many different types, sold at art stores, hobby shops and the like.  They are "self healing", meaning the surface repairs itself from cuts rather than leaving gashes that mar the work surface.  If you have the money to spare and it interests you, get one.  Personally, I just use some thin, non-corrugated cardboard from anything at hand - an empty cereal box or some other packaging - and throw it out when it's no longer serviceable.

Scribe (optional)

                This is a specialized tool used for punching holes through thin plastic card or scribing panel lines into a model's surface.  It looks like a hobby knife handle with a thick needle at the end.  I have one I've used for years whenever a job calls for it, and I've kept it sharp with a few occasional passes across the emery board.  You won't need one immediately, but pick one up if you find your tasks would benefit from it.
 
An Old Toothbrush          When you replace your toothbrush next time, take the old one, rinse it clean and put it in with your modeling tools.  It will essentially cost you nothing, and having an old toothbrush on hand can make cleaning and preparing models a lot easier.  I use it to remove the frayed bits when cleaning a restic model, to help remove sanding dust when filing or sanding a part, and a variety of other uses.

Question: Should I get a rotary tool like a Dremel?

In my opinion, this should not be an item that a beginning modeler even considers.  Yes, it can make it easier to clean, prepare, and convert miniatures.  You can cut, drill, sand, and polish quickly.  You can also ruin a miniature as quickly if you do not know what you are doing.  I'd strongly recommend holding off until you have more experience and know exactly how and when you'll need to use it.

There are times that a rotary tool would come in handy for me, but they haven't been frequently enough in 25 years for me to justify the expense.  If and when I buy one, I intend to get a cordless/rechargeable model - and variable speed will be a must.
 

SUMMARY

                So, now you have a general idea of which tools are necessary and which ones are used less frequently, but can still be helpful.  Where are you going to keep all these tools so that they remain handy and in good condition?  The answer is the simplest and least expensive tool you’ll buy – a plastic pencil box.  A buck or two is all you need to get a case large enough to hold all of your tools and protect them from moisture and damage.  I prefer a clear box, so I can see where everything is within.

                Tomorrow, we will be talking about what you’re going to do with all your shiny new toys when we tackle cleaning and assembling a miniature.

 

 

CHOOSING (AND USING) THE RIGHT PAINTS: PART TWO

In Part One, we discussed why acrylic paint is the preferred choice for miniature painting, and what brands are best suited to the way we are doing it. Now that we know what kind of paint to get and which brands are ideal, you'll want to know what colors to get and what other products you will want to go along with it.


Step One: Start Simple
With all of the color choices out there, it's easy for a beginning painter to be intimidated by the wide array of paints available in the larger lines. If you include the auxiliary products, Citadel has 160 colors, AV Game Color has 128, and Formula P3 has a "mere" 72 to choose from!

If you have the means, it's tempting to buy the entire line of your chosen brand. It's what I did when AV Game Color came out, and if it makes you happy, I won't stop you. But let me share a couple of observations before you commit a few hundred dollars to buying paint:

First - You don't need all those colors!

If you buy an entire line, odds are there will be some colors you'll never even open, even after years of painting. That's money that could have been spent buying more miniatures to paint! That's something I've personally experienced, and the only reason I bought the set of AV paints is because I could not predict what colors I might need when doing commission work.

Also - don't commit to a single brand.
While you may find that a particular brand is more suitable for you, there's no law against buying colors from another brand for a particular purpose. Maybe you just love P3 paints for their ability to thin so well without losing color (and that's the best reason there is!), but since the other major lines have about twice as many colors, you may find that another range has just the perfect shade for what you are doing. That's perfectly fine, buy it too! The main thing is to have whatever colors you need to make your model look great - who cares which brand they are once they're on the finished product?

So, you know you don't need to buy them all, and you know you don't need to stick to just one brand - but which colors do you need to start out? The simple answer is: It depends on what you are painting. That's not a complete answer, but we'll go into further detail in a moment.

If you're painting a mini from Warhammer or 40K, or a mini from Warmachine or Hordes, this step becomes simpler as the manufacturers also have their own paint lines. You will usually find a key on the package letting you know what colors were used. If not, look at a picture of the finished product and see what colors seem to match.  You may discover that Citadel and Privateer name many of their colors after the intended use - for instance, Caliban Green is the obvious perfect shade for painting a Dark Angels Space Marine!  Most paint lines have a key showing which colors are used as a shade or highlight for the base colors - it's good to have those resources when making your selections. Here are a couple of examples for the P3 line:

Formula P3 Mixing Chart
Formula P3 Paint Reference Sheet

Citadel and Vallejo also have similar charts, which may be on display in the store where you're buying the paint. If not, ask someone! Most of the people in hobby and game stores know a lot about the products, because they are hobbyists themselves! If all else fails, politely ask another gamer which colors to use for your particular needs. Most will be happy to share their knowledge and welcome a new painter into the fold.


But you still haven't told me exactly which colors to buy!
Okay, fine - I apologize if we went off on a (necessary) tangent. Regardless of what you intend to paint (and especially if you haven't chosen what to paint yet), there are certain colors every painter should have in their paint box:

• Black (P3 Thamar Black is my preference, but you could use AV #51 Black or Citadel's Abaddon Black)
• White (P3 Morrow White, AV #01 Dead White or Citadel White Scar)
• A basic Red (Citadel's Mephiston Red is my favorite, but P3 Khador Red Base or AV #10 Bloody Red will do, too)
• A basic Blue (P3 Cygnar Base Blue, AV #21 Magic Blue, or Citadel Altdorf Guard Blue)
• A basic Yellow (P3 Cygnus Yellow, AV #05 Moon Yellow or Citadel Yriel Yellow)
• A basic Green (P3 Gnarls Green, AV #29 Sick Green or Citadel Warpstone Glow)
• A mid-range Brown (Citadel Mournfang Brown, P3 Bootstrap Leather, or AV #40 Leather)
• A flesh tone (P3 Midland Flesh, AV #36 Bronze Fleshtone or Citadel Kislev Flesh)
• A bare metal color (P3 Cold Steel, Citadel Runefang Steel or AV #53 Chainmail Silver)

When you are just starting out, you don't want to be worrying about mixing colors, so if you know you will need other specific colors, do not hesitate to pick them up.

Best of all, each line has a beginner's paint set available. These sets contain a good array of colors to meet your basic painting needs. If you don't find them on your store shelves, ask your retailer to order them, or buy online:
 AV Introduction paint set
Citadel Base Paint Set

Formula P3's paint sets are faction-specific, but I recommend the Iron Kingdoms Colors set to get most of your basics, and then the rest separately - or get the Khador, Cygnar and Skorne sets to round out what you need (you'll have an extra Thamar Black and Solid Gold if you get all 4 - don't worry, you'll surely use them eventually. they are the two colors I needed to replace most recently.)


SUMMARY
Now you know what colors to look for when getting started, and why it's not necessary to buy an entire line - or even to stick to a single line at all! You'll have selected your basic colors and probably spent around $50 total. You have all the colors you need to get started!

In the next article, we will discuss the auxiliary paint products you will want to have on hand to get the best results from your painting. Stay tuned!

CHOOSING (AND USING) THE RIGHT PAINTS: PART ONE

As the name of this blog is The Sage Brush, it was only natural that our first technical article was about selecting and properly using the right paint brushes. But TSB is, after all, a painting blog, and what would a painting blog be without an early and in-depth discussion of paints?


We have already discussed why the right brush is the most important acquisition for painting - but a paint brush isn't very useful without the paint, is it? As with brushes, choosing the right paint is so essential for the best results possible.


ENAMELS OR ACRYLICS?
The first question is: Which type of paint should I use, enamel or acrylic? To find our answer, let us look at the benefits and drawbacks of each:

Enamels: Pros: Durable and chip-resistant, longer drying time (to enable blending)

Cons: Requires solvents to clean up, paint and solvents have strong odors and possibly harmful vapors, can be flammable, longer drying time (increases the amount of time to finish the work). May damage certain plastics, depending on the solvents used.

Acrylics: Pros: Cleans up with water, non-toxic, no vapors. Faster drying time.

Cons: Faster drying time (not as much time for blending), can rub or chip easily.
As we can see, enamels don't offer a lot of benefits, but there are a lot of reasons not to use them. And those reasons aren't reasons with easy workarounds. With acrylics, however, the drawbacks can be easily avoided with a couple of readily available products. We will go into those a little later and in future articles, but for now, suffice it to say: Acrylics are the indisputable best choice for miniature painters.
To be sure, there are some painters out there who do absolutely magnificent work with enamels, but they are very skilled and very experienced painters. They're not the sort who visit painting blogs like this, they are the sort who write their own blogs. They also have ventilated spray booths, airbrushes, and protective respiratory equipment.

So, for the purposes of this blog (and probably all future content), we will operate under the assumption that you will be brush painting with acrylics. I stopped using enamels over 25 years ago and I think my results (and my health) are better for it.


WHAT BRANDS DO YOU RECOMMEND?
There are an awful lot of brands of acrylic paints available to the hobbyist - some are far more suitable for this hobby than others. If you go to an art store or craft store, most of the types you will find are not going to give the best results. Generally speaking, you want to avoid any paint that comes in a toothpaste-like tube as these paints are far too thick for the type of painting we do. I also do not recommend the acrylic "craft paints" that come in bottles that look like trial size shampoo. These paints do not have the adhesion characteristics we need, and tend to go on far too heavily to get a thin, uniform coating like we need.

You will want to select a brand that's designed specifically for plastic/resin models and metal miniatures. The best places to look for these are game stores and hobby/train stores. There are still many brands to choose from; I would not personally recommend Polly, Humbrol or Tamiya for brush painting. I was never pleased with Humbrol or Polly acrylics when I used them many years ago, and while I did use Tamiya paints when airbrushing armor models, that's a topic for an advanced article much farther down the road.

So, what brands do I recommend for brush painting miniatures - and why? Here's my go-to list:

Vallejo Game Color - This is the line that I recommend most highly. They are of a similar formulation to the Vallejo Model Color line (AV's FAQ says that they have "a lower viscosity than Model Color and a resin more resistant to frequent handling"), but Game Colors are more brilliant than the matte Model Colors and thus, usually more suitable to our purposes.

A huge benefit of this product is that they come in 17ml dropper bottles, which are compact, long-lasting, and discourage you from painting right out of the pot (we will discuss why that's bad in an upcoming article). I bought a complete set of AV Game Color paints about 15 years ago, and with proper care and occasional thinning, stirring and cleaning of the removable dropper nozzles, they've lasted me quite well. I've only had to replace a few colors in that time. AV also makes many auxiliary products that I highly recommend for painting - brush-on primers, varnish, thinners, and mediums which will help you to get the best results.

Citadel Color - When I began painting with acrylics, Citadel was the only serious paint line designed for what we do. This was when I learned that Humbrol and Polly acrylics were unsuitable for miniature painting. Citadel's advantage is their "technical" approach to miniature painting. Their painting guides are second-to-none and I highly recommend the "How to Paint Miniatures" book and accompanying DVD, as well as any of their many painting guides specific to the army or faction you may be using.

The "technical" approach refers to the division of paint products into various types, depending on application. The painter will use a given Base paint to undercoat the model, applying a wash of a particular Shade to that, and then painting one or more Layer paints to establish the overall color of an area. Onto this, the hobbyist can apply a drybrush highlight using the Dry line, but I recommend edge highlighting using one of the Edge paints (or even a lighter Layer) instead. They also have a variety of Glaze colors; a Technical line for effects like rust, oxidation, corrosion or blood; and a Texture line for easy basing and similar effects (I do not recommend this unless you are painting line troops to a tabletop quality).

All in all, the Citadel line has come a long way and has helped enthusiasts to pioneer new techniques for amazing results. I remember when they released the Expert set of inks in 1990, and seeing the amazing effects we could achieve with ink washes. The paints in the old vinyl flip-top bottles have lasted incredibly well - I still have a blend for Space Wolves that's kept its consistency for 25 years! The newer hard topped pots are easier to open, but they don't close so well - it's easy for paint to accumulate along the rim or to otherwise fail to close them fully, causing the paint to dry out rapidly. I learned to my chagrin that "Liquid Green Stuff" quickly becomes "SOLID Green Stuff" when it's not fully and properly closed.

I would say that about half of my most widely-used paints are Citadel colors, because of their approach to painting and the specific applicability of their specialty paint lines.

Formula P3 - No, this is not a new format for auto racing. It is a line of paints by Privateer Press, the company that produces Warmachine and Hordes. Like the Citadel range, these colors are intuitively designed for easy shading and highlights - it's easy to tell which colors to use together.

The biggest reason for using P3 paints is that they have a liquid pigment base - this allows them to be thinned without separation or loss of brightness. This is very important, as later on we will discuss why you want to thin your paints rather than using them at the out-of-the-pot consistency. Coverage is fantastic with P3 paints - but I don't buy the "single coat" line in most cases. Don't worry about that, as in a later segment you will see why several thin coats are better than one thick one.

One note of caution: The original P3 metallics had some significant issues and are not recommended. These metallics had the white label like the rest of the line. Privateer responded to the issue by reformulating the metallic line and releasing new metallic colors with a black label. The black-labelled metallics are great, just like the rest of the P3 line.

These are the three primary brands I use - I do not have much experience with the Reaper Master Series paints or the Army Painter line, but I've heard no complaints and I leave it to the individual to decide for themselves if these products are suitable. One brief but very significant recommendation, however, goes to Army Painter Quick Shades. When Citadel reformulated a few years ago, painters lamented the loss of Devlan Mud and Badab Black, and noted how Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil were not exact substitutes. However, Army Painter's Soft Tone, Strong Tone and Dark Tone should be in every miniature painter's arsenal, regardless of what other lines you use. They are truly that versatile and that essential for best results.


SUMMARY
Herein, we have discussed why acrylics are the medium of choice for our particular applications, and what brands provide the best options and have delivered the best results. in Choosing (and Using) The Right Paints: Part Two, we will discuss which specific colors and auxiliary products every painter should have in their box, and later we will discuss the best methods of controlling consistency, flow, and properly loading a brush.

SURE... BUT IS IT "ART"?

Today, I wanted to talk about the concept of miniature painting as a valid art form. Art, like beauty, is a purely subjective concept - but as individuals who share certain interests (painting minis and usually gaming with them), I think we have a certain common ground as to what we could objectively call "art".

For most of my painting "career", I never really thought of painting miniatures as a form of art. In fact, it wasn't until recently that my perspective began to change. Two of my friends are painters and illustrators in a more "traditional" sense, but they also happen to be gamers and I've faced each of them across the 40K table before. Coincidentally, they both play the same faction - Eldar. I'm not sure if that's indicative of anything.

David Crowell is a man of many talents - an exceptional gamemaster, humanitarian, art proprietor, naturalist and painter who lives in the Adirondacks in Northern NY. His "plein air" paintings naturally feature outdoor scenes, often those of coastlines, forests and fishing. But he's also painted gaming miniatures and written for tabletop gaming supplements.

Jason Ballard is an illustrator, gamer and beer connoisseur, whose largest paintings have been human-sized (by means of a paintball gun). He has done commercial illustrations for several card games including Shadowfist and Legend of the Five Rings. He's also been known to paint and play with gaming miniatures as a hobby.

Both of these friends made me look at this hobby differently, as an art form. It was due to their responses to my compliments on their own art work. I'm not at all talented at illustrating or drawing on a flat, blank surface - I've often said that if you handed me a sharp pencil, I'd be more likely to draw blood than anything else. Admiring their pictures, I noted that I could never imagine painting as well as either of them did. They both responded in a similar fashion, saying something along the lines of "You paint these amazing miniatures, better than I have ever done... and you tell me you have no artistic talent?"

That was some serious food for thought. Many traditional elements of art are present in this hobby - choice of colors and color schemes, shading and highlighting, simulation of scale and verisimilitude, a wide degree of artistic interpretation and portrayal, use of paints and brushes... the only real difference in this hobby is the particular medium to which these materials and techniques are applied. Instead of a canvas, we apply them to a tiny model. For those who indulge in conversions and customizations, there's even a certain element of sculpture to what we do.

So why, I begin to ponder, is the hobby of miniature painting not typically considered an art form, even by those of us who participate in it? Is it because the figures are often used for tabletop gaming, which has fought for its own validity for nearly 40 years? Is it because gaming is regarded by some as a "childish" or immature pastime? Or is it just because properly appreciating a well-painted miniature is best accomplished by someone who is familiar with the game from which it originates?

I have seen some absolutely epic miniatures and dioramas that would put to shame some of the more "traditional" art works I've seen in museums. And I've seen many miniatures that were inspired, directly or indirectly, by well-regarded works of fantasy artists such as Frank Frazetta and Boris Vallejo. It cannot be coincidence that Vallejo created his own line of paints and supplies for miniature and model painters.

And it makes me wonder - would some of the most popular classical artists have indulged in this hobby, had it been available to them at the time? I can imagine that DaVinci would have found tabletop gaming to be quite fascinating, and might well have designed rules for miniatures he sculpted and painted by himself. I can envision a "painterly" tabletop army by VanGogh, and I have no doubt at all that Michelangelo would have an absolutely rockin' Blood Angels army. But that's all just speculation; until someone invents a time machine we have no way to know for sure.

Ultimately, art is, at its essence, a form of creative expression. There can be no doubt that this hobby qualifies as "art" under that most basic definition. Roger Ebert may not have considered gaming an art form, in spite of it possessing all of the elements that make movies an art form - narrative, continuity, setting a scene, characters - but we, as gamers, know better.

So now that you see how easily we can regard this hobby as a valid form of artistic expression, it is my hope that this will inspire you to seek that artist within yourself. Find that creative spark of imagination that will take you beyond just slathering some paint onto a tiny toy soldier, and let these little models become true works of ART!